Homes
Most Recent
-
Top 10 garden tools Top 10 garden tools
Top 10 garden tools ofTop 10 garden tools Behind the doors of an ace gardener's tool shed lie the secrets to a beautiful garden. Here are 10 tools you'll need to cultivate a better garden.1 Trowel Without a trowel, no perennials would be planted, no containers potted and no bulbs buried in the ground. The strongest trowels are made of steel and the lightest are made of cast aluminum. Handles are fashioned of wood or easy-grip plastic. Those designed with handle and blade all in one piece offer greater durability.2 Watering can Whether for spot-watering wilting plants or fertilizing containers of annuals, a watering can is a garden essential. Generally, those with a longer spout are better balanced. Easy-care, lightweight plastic watering cans work just as well as the more attractive brass and copper ones.3 Transplanting spade With its long, narrow blade, a transplanting spade gets into tight spots in the garden, reducing the likelihood of damage to nearby plants. It's also more suitable than traditional spades to dig holes deep enough to accommodate plant roots.4 Fork A garden fork is indispensable for safely lifting out the roots of an established perennial, dividing overgrown plants or harvesting root vegetables. Stainless steel blades are the strongest.5 Utility bag Sooner or later, you'll need to weed. As you move through the garden, discard weeds and garden debris into a lightweight bag or basket that's easy to pull alongside you. Collapsible pop-up styles are popular, as well as fold-down polypropylene bags. 6 Pruners Keep overgrown shrubs and trees within bounds with a good pair of secateurs or pruners. The by-pass types are better buys than the anvil pruners because they make cleaner cuts. Look for secateurs with a swivel handle – they're easier on the wrist.7 Shears or scissors What's a garden without bouquets of flowers? Use chichi shears or scissors or pick up a dozen at the dollar store – all work just as well for cutting the stems of perennials or removing dead flowerheads. 8 Soaker hose Sprinklers water lawns – soaker hoses irrigate gardens. Placed at ground level, this perforated hose trickles water into the soil, slowly delivering moisture to the root zone – just where plants need it. 9 Wheelbarrow or garden cart Wheelbarrows make light work of trucking through the garden with heavy sacks of soil or unwieldy bags of peat moss. Whether you choose a conventional wheelbarrow, a garden cart, buggy or wagon, it's sure to take a beating in the garden so buy one of good quality.10 Edger Place the finishing touches on your garden with an edger. This moon-shape hand tool slices into the ground to create a clean, sharp edge between flowerbeds and lawn.- Credit
- Lorraine Flanigan
-
Gardening 101 Gardening 101
Gardening 101 ofBiggest gardening mistakes I'm a novice gardener. I'm not looking to grow prize-winning peonies on my porch or have rare orchids sprout from under my clothes' line. But I would like to have a garden, a real garden, not just a place behind my house where random green things pop up in the spring. Problem is, everything I buy from the nursery looks beautiful when I get it home, then wilts and dies under my watchful eye. Clearly I'm missing something. I asked Mark Cullen, spokesperson for Home Hardware and host of the Garden Show on CFRB, to answer a few questions and clear things up.S@H: What are the biggest mistakes beginner gardeners tend to make?Mark: That's easy. They don't prepare soil properly or thoroughly enough. First determine what kind of soil you have. It's going to be between two extremes: solid clay and pure sand. In Ontario, the majority of people have clay-based soil. You don't want to plant your whole garden in that. Before planting a whole bed, dig out 16 inches (40 cm) deep and fill it in with “triple mix.” Triple mix is a combination of top soil, compost and peet moss and it's the universally accepted soil mixture. Use it for ornamental gardens, fruit trees, roses, evergreens - anything. You can buy it at any garden centre. If you're just putting in one plant, remove the clay-based soil from the hole and fill that in with triple mix.Once you have a good quality soil, 90 percent of your gardening success in ensured right there.Now put the plant in the hole. The crown of plant (where stems meet the top of the pot) should stand 5 to 8 cm above the grade of the soil. Then mound soil up to the crown. You don't want water flowing down into the crown because then the water doesn't drain away and the plant will rot. Watering plans and shade-loving plants S@H: How often do I need to water my garden?Mark: Most new gardeners, if they get this far and fail, it's because they over water. I've seen more plants killed by an excess of TLC than anything else. New gardeners don't know that plants need to dry out -- the roots need to breathe. If all you did was keep the roots sopping wet, oxygen would never get down to them. It's really important to let plants get somewhat dry between waterings. Notice I didn't say bone dry. Here's how to check: just stick your finger into the soil. It should feel dry for a couple of centimeters and moist further down. In time, you'll be able to look at your plants and know if they need water. S@H : How do I choose the right plant for the location?Mark: The primary consideration is light. Remember this rule of thumb: “Partial shade” is no more than 6 hours of sun a day; “full sun” is at least 6 hours of sun a day.If you want perennials, you can't go wrong with low-maintenance, shade-loving hostas. You can grow them anywhere in Canada, up to north of Edmonton. Coral bells or heuchera are my favs for partial shade. There are so many varieties with beautiful flowers (and slugs have no interest in them). They have a furry leaf and flowers from 12 to 24 inches (30 cm 60 cm) high. They make a beautiful show -- you could do a whole garden in heuchera.- Credit
- Jasmine Miller
-
Everything you need to know about gardening Everything you need to know about gardening
Everything you need to know about gardening ofEverything you need to know about gardening Gardening 101Garden expert Mark Cullen dishes the dirt on growing a thriving garden. Gardening FAQsGet your garden growing with these helpful horticultural hints. Tool-care tipsTake the time to ensure that your garden equipment is clean and in good repair. Beyond your own backyardConnect with fellow green thumbs and share your passion for gardening. Garden trendsTurn your garden into an outdoor haven with tips from expert Kathy Renwald. Putting the garden to bedFive ways to help your plants survive the winter. Planning a balcony gardenIf you don't have a backyard, your balcony can still be home to a gorgeous garden. Here are 10 things to consider before you get started. Roof gardens: 9 expert tipsCreate a rooftop oasis you'll enjoy all summer long. Quiz: Is your thumb green or brown?Take this quiz to find out if you're a gardening goddess or a horticultural horror. If gardening isn't your strength, learn how to turn your brown thumb green. Get organized outdoorsTurn your outdoor surroundings into an organized haven. 15 garden tricksTips that'll make your flowers flourish and your plants prosper. The lazy gardener: Four easy weekends to botanical blissA minimum-effort, maximum-beauty planner. 10 gardenista must-havesGet growing with our hip list of garden essentials. Wild about wildflower gardensPesticide-free, eco-friendly gardens are the hottest trend in yards today. Colour your gardenStimulate your senses and bring your garden to life with brilliant colour combinations. Garden beauties20 expert tips to get the most enjoyment from your flowers. Hybrid peonies for today's gardensFind out how to use colourful and lush peonies in your contemporary garden. Choosing and planting flowering shrubsBrighten up your garden with fancy foliage and flowers.- Credit
- Name of the author
-
15 garden tricks 15 garden tricks
15 garden tricks ofTips and tricks 1 Before you start Get to know your garden's potential. Pay particular attention to which areas get the most sun and wind. And test your soil. This will help you choose the right plants and help determine what should go where. 2 Before you buy Make sure you know how much space you're working with so you're not tempted to overbuy. As beautiful and varied as they are, too many flowers and you'll end up overcrowding them when you plant.3 Buying on a budget If you're on a tight budget, here are some tips from You Grow Girl: The Groundbreaking Guide to Gardening by Gayla Trail (Fireside, 2005): Buy off season, keep your eyes open for sales, online auctions can be a gold mine, or simply trade cuttings with friends and neighbours.4 Hardiness zones Many garden books and websites have Hardiness Zone maps for North America. The continent is divided into regions based on minimum and maximum temperatures. This kind of information can help you pick plants with the greatest survivability for your area.5 Choosing your plants Short and stocky plants are hardier and more stable than tall, thin ones. Turn the container over to make sure the roots aren't too compacted and twisted. Check for insects or disease. And avoid the allure of plants already in bloom. Plants that haven't flowered yet will have more stamina to survive transplanting. 6 Maximizing light exposure If your garden isn't so lucky as to have a southern exposure (which gets most of the day's light) look at ways to trim back taller plants or tree branches to let in more light where you need it. (Click here for tips to keep those garden tools tip-top!)7 Group plants that require lots of water together. More advice 8 Don't water plants in the scorching heat of the middle of the day. They'll absorb more, if you water in the morning or early evening. 9 To serve and protect Find plants that will work in tandem to thrive. For example, marigolds keeps pests away from tomatoes, peppermint repels white cabbage moth and perennial chives discourage aphids. Other pairings like these can confuse pests, enhance soil quality, provide shelter from the wind - even enhance flavours amongst edible plants.10 Milk mate Milk can be an effective fungicide when sprayed on leaves. Dilute it as much as you like or use it at full strength. Lower fat milks are less likely to clog your spray nozzle. 11 Prosperous perennials To ensure your perennials thrive and to promote healthy roots, make sure the soil has good drainage. On his website markcullen.com, garden expert Mark Cullen suggests combining mineral conditioner with organic matter like peat moss, compost or grass clippings to provide your plants with a nutrient-rich soil. 12 Mulches Woodchips, leaves, even newspaper can be used as mulch. Orgarnic materials like these laid on top of the soil helps water absorption and prevents weed growth. 13 Deadheading keeps new blooms coming.14 Most gardening experts recommend cleaning your garden tools. Doing so preserves them longer, prevents rust and also stops you from spreading disease from plant to plant. For the most part, soapy water is sufficient. But a little bleach will kill off any spores or diseases that may be clinging to the tools. 15 Container gardening Don't use soil from your garden or yard. Regular soil in containers will compact and harden, often resulting in dead plants. Container soils are special blends that don't actually contain soil. Typically they're blends of peat and perlite or vermiculite, which promote good drainage and air circulation, but require frequent watering to keep from drying out.- Credit
- Cindy Jacobelli
-
How to: Create a backyard wildlife corridor How to: Create a backyard wildlife corridor
How to: Create a backyard wildlife corridor ofFood One of the hottest trends in outdoor design these days is the wildlife-friendly backyard. Rather than dedicating space to oversized patios and exotic plantings, many yard dwellers are creating urban wildlife corridors, places where native plants, mammals, birds, amphibians, insects – and humans – can coexist in harmony. The need for wildlife-friendly backyards is more crucial than ever before, owing to the rapid loss of habitat as suburban subdivisions (and their requisite big-box stores) continue gobbling wildlife habitat across Canada. Any home can provide a little patch of shelter for wildlife. A small urban balcony garden can harbour a nectar-rich rest-stop for beneficial insects like bees (which pollinate 70% of our agricultural crops), butterflies and ladybugs, while a larger urban, suburban or rural home can welcome everything from beneficial insects to a litany of songbirds, amphibians such as frogs and toads (which eat flies and other pest insects), harmless insect-eating garter snakes, and even small mammals like bats, rabbits, red foxes and skunks. Here’s how to roll out the welcome rug for native wildlife – while beautifying your home at the same time.FOODPlant a mixture of native plants, trees and bushes that will provide nectar, leaves, berries and seeds for birds. Include a variety of plant heights, from tall nectar-rich blossoms to groundcover and bushy prairie grasses – all provide food for different species, whether directly (though nectar, seeds of leaves) or indirectly (by harbouring insects that predators eat). Keep the garden pesticide-free – you don’t want to kill beneficial insects. Birds and predator insects like ladybugs, lacewings and praying mantises will take care of pests. Native plantings have the benefit of being more drought-tolerant than exotics, helping you conserve water. Ask your garden store rep for customized help, or search species suited to your zone online. Some people choose to put out bird feeders year-round, while others only maintain feeders during the cold winter months when food is scarce. Whatever you do, be consistent about cleaning it and keeping it filled. During summer months, hummingbird feeders stocked with syrup will attract these beautiful tiny birds to your garden. Water and shelter WATERFresh water is a must for thirsty wildlife. Place your birdbath in shade or semi-shade so it doesn’t overheat, and change the water daily to discourage bacteria growth.Better yet, install a backyard pond. Kits make this once-laborious task a simple weekend project, if you’re willing to roil up your sleeves and get sweaty. Butterflies don’t drink from pools of water, so provide H2O for them by filling a shallow pan with fine gravel, and filling that with enough water to just keep it wet. Prevent mosquitoes from breeding in your yard, by changing birdbath water daily, and adding an aerator or stream to your pond ¬– skeeter larvae can only survive in still water.SHELTERGrow a variety of grasses, plants, bushes and groundcover to ensure shelter for various winged and four- and six-legged critters.- Credit
- Yuki Hayashi
-
How to: Create the garden of your dreams How to: Create the garden of your dreams
How to: Create the garden of your dreams ofGardening: Goals, repetition, mystery, “The first thing I do in the morning is take my cappuccino and stroll into the garden to look at the beautiful plants,” says the homeowner of this lush retreat north of Toronto. Designed by Randy Tumber of Tumber & Associates in Orangeville, Ont., the garden has won provincial, national and international awards for technical achievement and water features, among others. But talking to Tumber, you sense the accolades are secondary. He speaks of exploring the hearts and minds of his clients in the info-gathering stage and of how evoking an emotional response is more important than a flashy presentation. Here are his thoughts on what makes this a special garden and how to translate these principles into your own piece of paradise.1 Goals Gathering info is the first step in the design process. What do you want from your garden? How will you use it? For quiet meditation? Entertaining? Do you have a green thumb? “It's crucial to know the goals and aspirations of my clients,” says landscape artist Randy Tumber. These homeowners love the simple things. They entertain close friends here, but in small groups.2 Integration Designing a garden that suited its environment and the Frank Lloyd Wright-style architecture of the house was paramount to Tumber and the homeowners. Native plants like pagoda dogwood (Cornus alternifolia) were a natural choice and are also low maintenance. Gardening: Integration, sound, scent, focal point, separation 3 Repetition Tumber likes repetition because “you see it in nature.” Birch trees and ‘Stella d'Oro' day lilies are like punctuation marks that lead the eye down stone steps and across the lower terrace. Both plants are especially effective because they stand out: the white birchbark contrasts with the abundance of green, and the orange lilies are a look-at-me colour and blossom from spring to the first snow.4 Mystery “By controlling the line of vision along this path, we created a sense of mystery, which I like in a garden,” says Tumber. “Where does the stone stairway lead? It makes you want to go farther.” The shape of the path and how it disappears into the lush greenery pique curiosity and engage the visitor's imagination. Sound and scent 5 Sound To build a waterfall, Tumber brought in massive boulders to create a series of large cascades that look as though they were carved out by nature. The rushing sound of water adds a sensory experience – a key element of his designs. Elsewhere, bordering the path that descends into the lower garden, is a white pine. “The wind moving through the soft needles makes a whispering sound,” he says.6 Scent The hybrid ‘David Austin' rose, which has a classic fragrance, is a favourite of the homeowner's. Scent is another way to trigger sensory experiences. For example, “Star Gazer“ lilies by a front entrance give people a pleasant aromatic experience upon arriving,” says Tumber. Focal Point 7 Focal point Tumber tries to avoid making one element an overwhelming focal point; instead, he likes to integrate the various features into the landscape. “When nothing is dominant, it's pleasant – more natural looking,” he says. A large spruce and oakleaf hydrangea (climbing up the pillar) provide a natural flow, pulling the eye toward the taller canopy of trees in the distance.8 Moods Different parts of a garden should offer different moods. To evoke a meditative quality, Tumber included quiet ponds on either side of the gazebo. An underwater pump silently circulates water without creating ripples; elsewhere water rushes down a series of cascades, but here the mood is calming. Moods, mass plantings, key things to consider 9 Mass plantings“We use lots of mass plantings,” says Tumber, for visual impact and for practical reasons too. “Six to seven junipers will grow into one large area; weeds will have no room to germinate as the junipers grow and block the sun from reaching the soil underneath.” In this award-winning garden, the pink blooms of a ‘Gold Flame' spirea add hits of colour.10 Separation Pathways and bridges meander through this multi-level site, creating numerous private, secluded areas. To further the sense of enclosure, Tumber positioned terraces away from the house. “I like to create a green buffer between a house and terraces,” he says. Otherwise the harsh vertical lines of a structure meeting the horizontal ground feels overwhelming, as though the architecture looms over you. Trees and shrubs create a “safety blanket” for the garden, says Tumber, making the space “an emotional retreat.”There are key things landscape artist Randy Tumber considers when designing a garden. Follow these guidelines – in this order – to obtain your own well-planned space.1 Practicality “The design has to function for pedestrians as well as for vehicles,” says Tumber. (This point pertains to driveways, for instance.) In this garden, the steps and pathway are wide for easy traffic flow.2 Maintenance Tumber advises clients to include more shrubs and fewer perennials, which require substantial moving, dividing and pruning over time (that's why he loves native plants). Here, the trees and shrubs are low maintenance.3 Aesthetic“People think of aesthetics before anything else, but practicality and maintenance should come first when designing a garden.”- Credit
- Kathleen Dore
-
5 ways to bring life back to your yard 5 ways to bring life back to your yard
5 ways to bring life back to your yard of5 ways to enjoy your yard after summer Check out these beautiful autumn bulbs to add to your gardenStow your bins General tidying tops many fall to-do lists, and a great place to start is with recycling boxes, compost bins and garbage cans. Keep them handy but hidden in a specially designed wooden shed. Build your own or check out Bin Solutions (Toronto, 416-849-2467; binsolutions.ca) for an entire line of raccoon-proof waste and recycling storage systems in handcrafted red western cedar. Turn up the heat Strategically placed patio heaters or an outdoor fireplace can make your yard the perfect spot to spend a crisp autumn evening. If you're tight on space, cosy up with tabletop patio heaters that are lightweight and portable. Defy the dark As the days get shorter, light up the night with solar-powered patio lanterns or accent lights. They're eco-friendly and easy to install, with no wiring to worry about. Look for lights with energy-efficient LED bulbs and built-in photo sensors so your garden will glow automatically at dusk. You'll find many solar garden lighting options at RONA Home & Garden (rona.ca for stores).Add copper highlights Give your garden a fresh look for fall with an element of copper. Be it a bird bath, obelisk or trellis, multitasking copper pieces acquire a wonderful patina over time and add interest to your garden year-round. Lee Valley Tools (800-267-8767 for stores, catalogue and to order; leevalley.com) has a wide selection, including a graceful pyramid and a storage pot designed to hide that unruly garden hose. Grow a winter garden A few frost-proof pots and some hardy cold-weather plants will ensure your garden is more than just a sad reminder of summer. Cedar, juniper and fall-blooming heather make a colourful combo that will thrive well into the winter months. For potted plants, look for pots that are guaranteed frost proof, like terra-cotta that has been hand-formed to force out air pockets and prevent shattering. For more winter-garden ideas, check out Fernlea Flowers' website, fernlea.com.- Credit
- Sydney Loney
-
10 gardenista must-haves 10 gardenista must-haves
10 gardenista must-haves ofBulbs, soaps and labels Spring has sprung and it's time to get dirty! Whether you're an aspiring green thumb or a seasoned gardener par excellence, we've dug up 10 of the coolest tools, accessories, decor items and all-star finds we know you'll love. Read on for the season's hottest must-haves, guaranteed to please the wild at heart.Aquilegia mix Bag O' Bulbs, $16.97botanus.comA bag of double-flowering Columbines is the perfect gift for a flower lover (yourself or someone else). These pretty perennials are just the things for a shady or semi-shaded spot in your garden. The pre-selected colours take the guesswork out of coordinating that seemingly thrown-together, casual vibe. Garden Maker's French Market Garden kit, $19.95 USD greenfeet.comAvid cooks and small-space gardeners will delight over Garden Maker's French Market Garden kit. You don't have to be a beginner to reach for the convenience of an all-in kit. This one's complete with seeds for 10 different veggies, including (mesclun mix, d'Avignon French radishes, baby cucumbers, babelle baby carrots, yellow pear tomatoes and other chi chi designer veggies), plus ID stakes and a marking pencil. (Also comes in Fragrant Flower and Culinary Herb gardens). Zinc plant markers, $18.50 per set of 25 (includes fade-resistant carbon pencil)addedtouchstore.comAvoid surprises by identifying all the specimen in your garden. These rustic-chic zinc plant markers are extra-tall and have roomy 3-inch nameplates so you can go nuts -- why write "Muscari" when you can write "Muscari armeniacum 'Early Giant'"?Earthbound Gardener bar, $4.99 per barrockymountainsoap.comBanish ground-in dirt from your hands and nails with a gentle exfoliating soap. The Earthbound Gardener bar uses wheat germ and pumice powder to slough off grime, while aloe vera, cocoa butter and beeswax moisturize. Yarrow extract helps heal scratches. Order several bars and share them with all your garden lovin' friends. Wardian Case. $58.80 leevalley.comThis glass-panelled Wardian Case provides stylish shelter to delicate plants needing high humidity conditions. The tempered glass panes and powder-coated metal frame create the perfect tabletop mini-greenhouse, indoors or out. Boots, books and gardening tools for adults and kids The Cook's Garden (McArthur & Co, 2003), $19.76chapters.indigo.caGet the scoop on delish gardening with The Cook's Garden, your how-to guide to planting your own backyard chef's garden. Growing tips, recipes and colour photos galore make this book from the editors of Canadian Gardening magazine an essential reference. Hunter Wellies, $89 USDmastergardening.comThe classic Hunter Wellington boot is perfect for those times when you're seriously mucking about in the yard and your trusty Crocs just won't cut it. These are the original handmade Wellies, and we love their town-and-country look: as perfect for a latte run as they are for shoveling topsoil on a rainy weekend!Kids Long Gardening Tools, $40gardenscape.caMake gardening family-fun time by getting your kids involved. The Kids Long Gardening Tools four-piece set includes a heavy-duty flat-head rake, shovel, leaf rake and push broom, all scaled to little folks (age 5 ). Unlike gardening tools from the dollar store, however, the metal-and-wood construction mean these babies perform like the real things and are perfect for handing down to the next generation of green thumbs in your family tree! (My five-year-old tried them out and loved them, which means she has fun, while letting me work!) Advanced hand tool set, $59rittenhouse.caThe right tools make all the difference and this stainless-steel-and-wood Advanced hand tool set from famed English toolmakers Burgon & Ball is tops. We're betting the versatile scoop, weeding fork, patio knife (for digging up those in-between-pavers weeds) and widget (great for transplanting or weeding in a rock garden) will see a lot of action all season long. Also: check out the Starter Set (same price) with tools suited to newbies. Tub Trug, from $12.95 eachveseys.comA large-capacity Tub Trug is essential for gardening: use it to haul soil and mulch (mix them together inside), compost, cut branches; store pea gravel or other supplies; and bring in your harvest of garden-fresh fruit or veggies. The UV-resistant fadeproof colours will put a smile on your face. Available in 26L and 42L sizes.- Credit
- Yuki Hayashi
-
Wild about wildflower gardens Wild about wildflower gardens
Wild about wildflower gardens ofThe basics of an eco-lawn A gorgeous, low-maintenance garden? Make that a gorgeous, low-maintenance, pesticide-free, low-watering, eco-friendly garden and lawn? No, you're not dreaming. The secret is wildflower gardening, one of the hottest trends in yards today. In a nutshell, wildflower gardening involves planting flora native to your region rather than exotics that require extra TLC to flourish. Eco-lawns utilize dense, low-growing, grub-resistant and similarly low-maintenance fescue grasses. "By utilizing native plants chosen specifically for the conditions the plants would naturally grow in, a wildflower garden requires no soil amendments, no fertilizers and very little watering after installation, says Paul Jenkins, of Warminster, Ont.-based- Credit
- Yuki Hayashi
-
A beautiful garden in four weekends A beautiful garden in four weekends
A beautiful garden in four weekends ofFour minimum-effort weekends to maximum gardening enjoyment. Not all of us are avid gardeners or have the time to devote to primping and pruning. If you're maxed out or are a self-confessed "lazy" gardener, don't fret. It's possible to keep duties to a minimum but still maintain an attractive yard. Divide your spring garden wake-up tasks into these manageable chunks over four weekends from mid-May to mid-June. Then, with our five easy-care plant picks, you'll breeze through the season with a good-looking garden that only needs watering and regular lawn cutting.Weekend 1: Get ready Clean trowels, rakes, spades and forks with water and a brush, then coat with a thin layer of mineral oil to prevent rust. Sharpen spades; clean and oil pruners. Next, do some spring cleaning: rake fallen leaves from lawn and cut back dead stalks of perennial flowers. Prune overgrown evergreen shrubs. Deadhead spring bulbs (daffodils, tulips) after flowering.Weekend 2: Treat your soil Mulch is the lazy gardener's best friend: it reduces the need for irrigation by half and discourages weed seeds from germinating. Available in a variety of materials, inorganic mulches (gravel, small colour-coordinated stones) work well in formal gardens; organic mulches (shredded bark, wood chips) are better in casual settings. Before applying mulch to the soil surface, first rake in two centimetres of compost or composted manure to feed the soil. Then apply the mulch to a depth of four to seven centimetres to all flower beds and around the base of trees and shrubs.Weekend 3: The lawn Regardless of its critics, turf grass is one of the best low-maintenance plants for large areas. First, get your mower serviced by a pro; have blades sharpened and positioned so grass can be cut six to seven centimetres high (which encourages deep, drought-resistant roots). Leave clippings; they'll feed the lawn, cutting fertilizer needs in half. Fix bare spots by reseeding or patching with sod. Spot-weed, the priority being weeds about to set seed.Weekend 4: Shopping spree Now it's time to reward yourself with a trip to the garden centre. First make a list of the plants you want to purchase to avoid being overwhelmed once you arrive. Select healthy-looking specimens with no signs of insect damage. Choose groups of plants (perennials or shrubs) that work well together, and plant in threes and fives (aesthetically more pleasing than even numbers). Match plant needs (sun/shade, dry/moist soil) to the area you intend to put them. Easy-care plants Five easy-care plantsNo need to sweat it this summer. These plants will provide colour for most of the season, don't need deadheading, are drought tolerant, and are resistant to pests and disease. And all but the petunia will grow in poor to average soil.1 Hardy geraniums Not to be confused with your grandmother's windowsill Pelargoniums. New hybrids of these perennials bloom continuously from early summer to autumn. Look for cultivars like 'Ann Folkard,' 'Okey Dokey,' 'Purple Pillow' and 'Rozanne' for their dependable floral display. (Perennial, part shade to full sun.)2 Zebra grass A striking, non-invasive grass "striped" with horizontal gold bands. Hardy to -30°C. A fast grower that adds instant architecture. (Perennial, part shade to full sun.)3 The 'wave' petunia series Available as single- or double-blooming plants in a wide range of colours, each plant can spread to one metre in width. Blooms don't go soggy after rainfall like old-fashioned petunias. (Annual, part shade to full sun.)4 Daylily Many new, large-flowered, multicoloured cultivars are available (avoid the old-fashioned orange daylily as it's invasive). Buy an assortment of early-, middle- and late-blooming varieties to keep the show going all season. (Perennial, part shade to full sun.) 5 Yew The most forgiving of all shrubs because it will grow almost anywhere, including dark corners where nothing else will survive. Doesn't require frequent pruning. Bonus: provides deep green colour with red berries in winter. (Evergreen, shade.)Spruce up your boring urban garden with our easy tips.Horticulturist Stephen Westcott-Gratton is the author of several books on gardening, the host and creative consultant of HGTV's Flower Power and a regular contributor to Canadian Gardening.- Credit
- Stephen Westcott-Gratton
-
Mid-September garden chores Mid-September garden chores
Mid-September garden chores ofMid-September garden chores Well, that's it then, right? Summer is as good as over. No more gin-and-tonics on the garden wall or dinners under the plum tree. No more garden tourists till next spring, either, and just as well. The annuals look leafy and leggy, the slug and earwig damage is starting to show, and even the tireless bellflowers are down to their last buds. Time to slip into the duck shoes, haul out the big tools and get to some serious work. Despite what others may think, fall is a grand time for gardeners, with no one looking while we reappraise the season past, harvest our triumphs, compost our defeats and surreptitiously prepare next summer's delights.There is, for instance, no better time for transplanting – or planting, come to that. The only problem with putting in new things now is that garden centres don't want to be stuck with inventory for the winter, so they don't stock nearly the range of plants they have in spring. If you can find what you want, though, or only want to move things you've got, now is the time. Most trees, shrubs and perennials have stopped producing leaves and flowers and are just entering a period of vigorous root growth. They won't resent new digs to dig into, and may well welcome the notion – especially if there's some fresh topsoil or compost (though not fertilizer) involved.Plants moved now (or planted new) will have up to two months to settle in and spread their roots before they go dormant. Plus another roughly two months' jump on next year's April transplants, because their roots will start growing again as early as February. The size of a perennial's root system pretty much dictates its size aboveground, so the plant you put in next April will not, for at least a season, much overshadow an area the size of the pot it came in. But put the same plant in the ground now and the diameter of its roots – and consequently next year's plant – could double that. The flip side is, of course, that any perennial weeds left in the garden now will also have the same weeks of root growth to get bigger and stronger for next spring, so it's in your own interest, no matter how thankless the task may seem, to also now get the garden as weed-free as you can, starting with the weeds at the edge of the bed – the ones you've been fertilizing all year. page 2 Right now, you should dig an air trench – a V-shaped cut that most gardeners use to keep grasses (or groundcovers, or near-the-surface roots of trees and shrubs) out of garden soil. Briefly, with a sharp, square-ended spade, slice into your lawn about two centimetres back from the edge of the garden, shoving the blade in deep, then leaning back on the handle to free a thin slice of grassy soil. Leave the slice in place, but reinsert the spade next to it to extend the cut. When you've gone a few metres, or the whole way along the edge of the bed, return to where you started and gently lift the soil slice away -- or as much of it as contains roots -- taking out any stolons or rhizomes reaching into the bed, too, as you go. That's the first and most important weeding task, but clean out as many other invaders as you can, too. Beyond that, I'd take it easy. I'm not one for cutting back all perennials after they fade, even in November, when other chores are done. I do rake up fallen rose leaves – and don't compost them – because of the risk of infection. And I cut hostas back as they wither rather than provide shelter for slugs. But a lot of finished perennials look handsome in the snow -- ornamental grasses, especially, but also taller sedums, such as 'Autumn Joy,' and some asters. Except for weeds, the cleaning up I do between my plants now is mainly to make room for bulbs.- Credit
- Charles Oberdorf
-
Zen in 10 Zen in 10
Zen in 10 ofZen in 10 You know her as the feisty Brit who executes home makeovers, guerrilla style, on HGTV's Debbie Travis' Facelift. But what did the decorating diva, who's more accustomed to paint chips than peat moss, do when her boggy backyard needed a lift? She called in a landscape expert. The tranquil result -- two parts Zen, one part English country -- affords this producer-slash-writer-slash-mother a peaceful garden she couldn't appreciate more. Here are her tips for planning your own Zen garden.1 Make sure Zen style is right for you. If you're an avid gardener addicted to planting, dividing and moving, austere Japanese design may not be a good fit.2 Create a budget before you begin. "True, Japanese gardens are minimal, but man, those little bags of rocks can add up!"3 Incorporate rockery. "Zen gardens rely as much on hard elements like stones as they do on soft plantings, so make sure you include them in your design."4 Move the rocks around. Since stones are central to the design, be sure they're pleasing to the eye from various vantage points. "Before buying, examine them to see if they look good on all sides."5 Choose minimal plantings to keep the landscape sparse. 6 Pick tall, spiky varietals over lush, rounded bushes; they're more in keeping with the Zen look.7 Make the colour scheme soft and homogeneous -- like greys and greens accented with white. "You don't want anything jarring."8 Opt for low benches and yard architecture typical of traditional Japanese style.9 Examine the garden from every angle. "I'd survey the yard from my second-floor bedroom to be sure I liked the view. Then I'd go into the kitchen and look again. The last thing you want to see from your kitchen window is your neighbours' plastic swing set."10 Consider investing in a water feature. Not only do they look attractive, but the sound of running water is very...well, Zen!- Credit
- Liza Finlay
-
Gardening FAQs Gardening FAQs
Gardening FAQs ofWhat are the best plants for shade? What are the best plants for shade?Any spot in your garden that gets less than four hours of sun a day is considered a shady spot. The key to successful growing here is the soil condition. Use composted leaves and mulch to keep the soil moist and to provide humus. Among trees, shade-lovers include dogwoods and Japanese maples, although the red leaves like at least a few hours of sun a day. Wherever your shade is most dense, you can't go wrong with hostas or hydrangeas. And if you just can't live without some colour, there are plenty of options. Try impatiens, forget-me-nots, foxglove, primrose, begonias, astilbes, bleeding hearts or rhododendrons.What's the best kind of soil?If you cast your mind back to high school science, you may remember something called the pH level. Something with a low pH is highly acidic. Something with a high pH is highly alkaline. A lot of plants get the most nutrients from neutral soil. But not all of them. Highly alkaline soils are good for peonies and peas, while blueberries and azaleas love acidic soil. You can test your soil with a home test kit or send a sample away to a lab for testing. Altering the pH is not difficult. To neutralize, add organic matter. If you want to increase the acidity, the quickest way is to add garden sulphur, but peat, black tea leaves and coffee grounds will also do the trick. For a more alkaline soil, add limestone or crushed oyster shells. How often should I water my garden? How often should I water my garden?You want to ensure you soak your plants anywhere from an inch to a foot deep depending on the plant and where you've put it. Waterings should be less often, but more thorough. That's because shallow watering makes for shallow root systems that are susceptible to drought. On average, you want to water your garden once a week, for about an hour. Younger plants and trees require more water than older, more mature ones in order to establish strong roots. Watering the base of your plants rather than the tops will minimize fungal diseases. It's also advisable to water your plants in the morning because leaves holding puddles of water through the night are also susceptible to rotting. To help your plants absorb more water, add a layer of mulch a few inches deep.What's the correct way to prune my plants?Pruning is important to keep your plants healthy, sturdy and beautiful. But it's a task that many people find intimidating, since the last thing they want to do is kill the plant. If you really don't know what you're doing, you may want to have an expert come in and do it for you –- they can also give you pointers on how to do it yourself next time. If you're willing to brave it, here are the essentials. Cut away any dead or diseased branches. You may also wish to remove crowded or non-symmetrical branches. But that's a matter of taste. Uncross any tangled branches or stems. Once you're ready to start cutting back, make sure your tools are good and sharp for a clean cut. Cut close to where the arterial branch is growing out of the main branch. And always cut on a slant in the direction you want the new branch to grow. If you have shrubs that need pruning, making them narrower at the top will help expose the base to more sunlight. (Click here for a list of top 10 must-have garden tools.)- Credit
- Cindy Jacobelli
-
Putting the garden to bed Putting the garden to bed
Putting the garden to bed ofPutting the garden to bed Cool, crisp autumn days mean it's time to get out into the garden and tuck your plants in for the winter. Fluctuating temperatures, drying winds and snowfalls that come and go wreak havoc with perennials and shrubs. Now is the time to take steps to help your plants survive the winter. Here's how: 1 Discard diseased debrisGuard against the spread of disease next year by discarding the leaves and stems of plants that showed signs of fungal diseases or insect damage during the growing season. Make sure you destroy these or put them out to the garbage; never add them to the compost. 2 Let stems and grasses stand tallFight your tidy instincts. The stems of perennials like black-eyed Susan, purple coneflower, sedums and grasses add winter interest to the garden, their seeds providing food to wintering birds. Most importantly, the stems trap snow, helping to insulate plant roots over the winter. If you must clean up, remove the leaves of hostas, daylilies and Siberian irises – these tend to turn into a soggy, scraggly mess by spring.3 Topdress with compostKeep your plants healthy by adding a layer of compost to the surface of garden beds. Compost acts like a multi-vitamin for plants, providing nutrients that are released slowly at a rate that plants are able to absorb. If you don't make your own compost, contact your municipality; many cities and communities offer free compost to residents. page 2 4 Mulch garden bedsThank your neighbours for raking and bagging fallen leaves – they're recycling the best protection for your garden beds. A mulch of shredded leaves insulates the roots of perennials, protecting them against the freeze and thaw cycles that cause spring heaving – that' when plants are pushed out of the ground, their roots exposed. Collect the smaller leaves of trees like linden, mountain ash, birch and crab apple. These make the best mulch, allowing water to pass through to the soil surface instead of matting and forming a barrier the way the leaves of Norway and Manitoba maples do. Once the ground has frozen, cover perennial garden beds generously, applying the leaf mulch to a depth of about 10 to 12 centimeters (four to five inches). 5 Water shrubs and treesOne of the best ways to protect your shrubs and trees over the winter is to water them. Timing is important: water shrubs and trees after their leaves drop but before the ground freezes. Water thoroughly and deeply, giving the roots a good drink to help them combat drying winds and sunscald caused on warm, early spring days. In addition to a long drink of water, rhododendrons and other broad-leaved evergreens benefit from an anti-desiccant spray applied when temperatures are cold but not freezing – around 4?C. The spray coats the leaves, locking in moisture throughout the winter. Satisfied that you've done your best to help your plants survive the winter, relax by a cozy fire with your gardening journal, making notes for next season.- Credit
- Lorraine Flanigan
-
Urban garden fix-up Urban garden fix-up
Urban garden fix-up ofWhere to start When I bought my tiny semi in downtown Toronto, I fell in love with the quiet street and was charmed by the hardwood floors. I saw the "potential" of the place and couldn't ignore the rightness of the price, either. I did, however, pretend not to see the backyard. It wasn't horrifying – there were no dismantled trucks out there, for example. It's just a typical urban yard: A long skinny space (12 feet by 50 feet), with rocky soil, eclipsed by an enormous maple tree and featuring sparse grass between patches of dirt. And it's a jungle out there – raccoons, squirrels, cats and skunks killed my early attempts at growing edibles.So for a few years the sad plot of land sat untended while I looked inward, taking down walls, replacing wiring and windows, installing pot lights and studying paint chips. Sometimes I'd stare outside and dream about what it could be. Nothing fancy, I just want something pretty and low-maintenance, a small private corner to sit and read, or drink myself silly. Since I've got energy to spare and I take direction well, I'm ready for some DIY action. So I called Rene Trim, owner of Ottawa-based Trim Garden Design. His five-year -old company does both residential and commercial landscaping; if he can create gardens for condominiums and retirement homes, I knew he could answer my question: What can an urban homeowner easily do to make her outdoor space beautiful? Break up the straight lines"If you can overlook your entire garden in one fell swoop, then you are on the wrong track," Rene says. Why? "Straight lines are uncompromising. They automatically draw the eye to the back of the garden, making the space seem shorter," says Rene. "By introducing a feature halfway down the garden, the eye will be kept inside the garden itself rather than wandering off to the boundaries." A beautiful garden Create focal points"Plant something dead smack in the middle of your long narrow garden," says Rene, "create something that you have to walk into to see what's there." If you don't want a large shrub or a small tree in the middle of your yard, put in a flower-bed. "And create vertical height and depth in the garden by planting at different heights," adds Rene. Raise your flower-beds"This way you can add compost, fertilizer or anything that will improve the quality of the soil," says Rene. Besides compensating for the poor soil quality in my space – that large maple sucks up most of the water and nutrients, starving off all other plants near by – raised beds also help keep the neighbour's dog out. "Pile up stones or build a wooden platform to create an elevation – 12 to 15 inches is fine, 18 at most," says Rene. Embrace angles and curves "Tapering paths creates the illusion of more depth," says Rene. Use small stones for paths "Interlocking brick should be placed diagonally or at an angle to create the illusion of a wider path," says Rene. Create vertical visual impactPlant big, shade-loving beauties – Rene recommends Goatsbeard (Aruncus Dioicus in Latin), which grows to about 3 feet, or Ligularia (Ligularia Przewalski is the full name) that gets a foot higher. "Among the best plants for creating vertical visual impact are the taller ornamental grasses, like Feather Reed Grass (or Calamagrostis)," he adds, "they are low-maintenance, disease resistant and thrive in relatively poor soil."- Credit
- Jasmine Miller
-
Colour your garden Colour your garden
Colour your garden ofColour your garden Adding colour to our lives is often why we garden in the first place. Colour can excite and stimulate, can soothe and refresh. Perhaps most importantly, the colours of our garden are a reflection of who we are. Warm yellows, oranges and reds excite and give a sense of exuberance and exhilaration. These colours magnificently highlight a distant view, accenting even the furthest reaches of the garden. Cool blues, greens, purples and pinks calm and reassure us, blending peacefully into the landscape and enveloping us with composure. White, the most versatile colour of all, blends other colours and lightens the garden. Whites tie together garden areas, soften strong colours and lead the gaze from one area to another. Pale colours such as pastel pinks and yellows brighten and accent dark corners of the garden or shady retreats. Dark colours such as maroons and plums make their strongest impact when used in full sun, although they will add beautiful emphasis to darker areas when set off with white or silver.When planning your colours, consider some of these combinations and then let your imagination go:Pure deep blue with soft, clear yellowScarlet clear pale blue with clear pale rose-pinkCreamy white, blue-white or pale yellow, deep red-purple with pale tints of sameCream-white or pale yellow, flame pink with cold gray-blue and creamy whitePure orange with brown and bronze, pure yellow with soft gray-blue or creamy white.Monochromatic gardens emphasize a single colour with flowers and foliage of various tints and shades of that colour. These gardens might include pale lemon, gold and orange; sky, indigo, violet and purple; scarlet, pale pink and cardinal. Although the emphasis is on one colour, not everything is the same colour, but rather shades that reflect the original colour. In fact, even an all-white garden is best emphasized with shades of silver, cream and pale yellow to set off the whites. Complementary themes such as mauve - pink - blue or yellow - orange - brown are soothing. Be sure to toss in something of contrast for interest and tie the colours together with white and gray. Extreme contrasts such as yellow and purple or red and blue can be quite dramatic and exciting. Again, tie them to each other with cream or silver. The ultimate polychromatic garden includes all colours. A riot of colours is exuberant, especially if you use white and silver to tie the garden together and to ease the intensity. Use gray, gray-blue and blue in the distance to give a hazy ambiance and make garden look like it goes on forever. Colour is a superb way to complement other elements in the garden such as the house, a fence or a planter. For example, a gray weathered fence is a spectacular backdrop for peach and salmon foxgloves and delphiniums. A red brick patio cries to be adorned with silver and white mealycup sage and fragrant flowering tobacco. A white windowpane trellis or white picket fence is exquisite when draped with creamy peach sweet peas and periwinkle blue morning glories. © National Garden Bureau, Inc.- Credit
- The National Garden Bureau
-
Be a social gardener Be a social gardener
Be a social gardener ofBeyond your own backyard Gardening may seem like a solitary pursuit, but that's only to the uninitiated. Landscape architect Janet Rosenberg offers the following advice on how to connect with fellow green thumbs.Join a gardening club. “Every town has one,” Rosenberg says. Chances are you'll find friendly people who share your passion for plants, and some of them have been gardening for years and have expert knowledge. If you have a big job to do, such as digging large beds, someone at the club might be able to recommend a reliable local contractor.Connect with your neighbours. “Instead of buying soil by the bag, buy it by the truckload and then split it with your neighbours,” says Rosenberg. And trade plants with others, too. “You can drive down certain streets and see that the people who live on them have all traded because everybody has the same thing in front of their house. It's great. It really gives a sense of unification to the street.”Go to a gardening show. They're wonderful for inspiration and education. At the larger ones, you can buy plants and furniture, and feature gardens will give you ideas that you can transplant to your own garden. Visit a botanical garden. “Botanical gardens are great because everything is labelled, so if you love something you see, you can make note of it,” Rosenberg says. “That's how landscape architects do it. When there are new trials of plants, we look and maybe say, Oh, I don't like the way it performs in a garden, the leaves don't stand up, it's not a nice colour, the flower fades quickly – so we won't use it. But you might see something else and say, It was such a dry summer but look at that plant: it's still so beautiful, it's a great plant to use.”- Credit
- Kathleen Dore
-
Tool-care tips Tool-care tips
Tool-care tips ofTool-care tips Caring for the tools that help you through the gardening season is important to ensure they last season after season. Here's how to keep everything in tip-top condition. Cutting toolsSticky residues often build up on pruners, shears, loppers and pruning saws. Use a rag dipped in paint thinner to remove the sap and pitch from the blades of these tools. Then, sharpen the blades with a file or wet stone before protecting them from rusting with a spray or wipe of WD-40 oil.Hand toolsWash trowels, cultivators and other hand tools with soapy water to remove dirt, scrubbing them with a stiff-bristled brush or steel wool to dislodge crusty chunks. Inspect the handles of your tools and re-glue any that have come loose. To prevent them from drying and splitting, give wooden handles a swipe with a rag moistened with linseed oil, removing the excess oil with a clean cloth. Tools with painted handles can be touched up if necessary, or coated with brightly coloured paint that's easy to spot in the garden.Hoses and sprinklersTo guard against splitting and cracking, drain all hoses before storing them coiled on a flat surface – hoses hung on nails might cause the hose to crack where it bends. Drain and turn off outside taps to prevent pipes from freezing and bursting. Large toolsClean large tools such as shovels, rakes, hoes and edgers with soapy water, removing crusted soil with a wire brush or steel wool. Sharpen the blades of digging tools – they'll perform much better with sharp edges. Wipe or spray metal parts with WD-40 to prevent rusting. Rub linseed oil into wooden handles to prevent drying and splitting, finishing with a swipe of a dry cloth to remove excess oil that makes the handle sticky to the touch. StorageAfter carefully preparing your tools for another season, store them in a dry place away from rain and snow. Hang tools with handles such as spades, rakes and hoes on the walls of your garage or garden shed where they're out of the way, yet easily accessible when you're ready to use them in the spring. Place hand tools together in a basket or bucket where they won't go astray. Then, hang up your hat, take off your gloves and hope for an early spring.- Credit
- Lorraine Flanigan
-
Garden beauties Garden beauties
Garden beauties ofGarden beauties Most people love flowers and plants but often don't indulge in the pleasure of planting their own because they're unsure how to care for them. As an individual who has dispensed advice to floral professionals for 16 years, I've compiled a list of effective, easy-to-use tips to make your flowers, plants and world more beautiful.The top 201 To keep your flowers looking better and lasting longer, display them in a vase and make sure that none of the leaves are covered with water. Leaves decay in water, and they'll drastically decrease the vase-life of your cut flowers.2 First things first: When you bring flowers home, cut the stems at an angle and then place them in fresh water for a nice long drink before removing the wrapping.3 The most important thing you can do to make your flowers last is use a vase that is clean and freshly washed. 4 When the water in a vase starts getting low, don't dump it and start all over again. Flowers are at their happiest when you just top off the existing water by adding some that is fresh.5 Just like humans, flowers rest more comfortably at night when it's cool. Try a lower thermostat setting in the evening and give your flowers a chance to perk up by the morning. 6 Decorating a buffet with flowers? Keep the flowers away from fruit – fruit gives off ethylene gas, which accelerates the aging process of flowers. 7 Maximize your pleasure from gladiolas. To assure a full and spectacular display, make sure that at least one flower on each stem is open when you buy them.8 Once called African daisies, gerberas have become even more popular now that you can choose both the colour and size – gerberas come in standard, huge, mini and micro-mini.9 Daffodils make a house look homey, but be careful. They secrete a poison into the water that can be deadly to any other flowers you put in the vase. 10 Iris item: When buying irises, make sure that they are showing colour on the buds or they may never open. 11 Gardenias are a hearty variety whose white flowers set off the decor in any living room. Remember, these flowers require light, but avoid putting them in the sunny part of a room.12 With dramatic pink, white and blue flowers, cyclamen are beautiful plants. However, they can cause illness if accidentally eaten, so be sure to keep them away from children and pets.13 Give your flowers a second life by drying them before they're past their prime.14 Keep an aloe plant handy in the kitchen. Its juice offers quick relief from any cooking burns. Aloe plants like water, so make sure that the soil is moist, but don't mist the leaves or you'll kill the plant.15 Not sure how much sunlight hits a particular section of your garden? Plant hydrangeas. They thrive in bright, moderate and very little light.16 Can't find lilies of the valley at your garden centre? Remember, they're sometimes listed by their botanical name Convallaria.17 Do you speak to your plants? Whether or not that really improves their health, one thing is certain – if you don't give your plants proper nutrients and sunlight, nothing you say will help them grow. 18 Want to eat lunch outdoors in your backyard but can't stand the bugs? Try decorating the area around your table with pretty rose or lemon geranium plants, which are effective at keeping many small bugs at a distance. 19 If you want to encourage the continuous blooming of the plants in your garden, remove the flower head after it finishes blooming.20 Fun fact: Once a flower is named and registered in Holland, it can never be renamed. The late Audrey Hepburn was honoured eight years ago with the Audrey Hepburn Rose. Courtesy of Article Resource Association- Credit
- Robert Perilla
-
Maintain a healthy lawn Maintain a healthy lawn
Maintain a healthy lawn ofMowing and watering Lush, thick grass -- it's the pride of many homeowners. Follow these common-sense guidelines for a healthy, manicured lawn. MowingMowing causes stress -- and stressed grass weakens lawns, making them more susceptible to invasion by pests and disease. Bearing in mind that no more than one-third of the length of the grass blades should be cut during a single mowing, cut your lawn with a sharpened mower to a height of about three centimetres during cool periods of the growing season and to five centimetres during the hot summer months. Shadier areas should be cut slightly higher. Make your first spring cut only when the grass is about six to seven centimetres high to give the roots a chance to regenerate, and make your last cut of the fall when the weather becomes cold enough to stop the grass from growing. WateringGrass is smart. Grass will send you a signal when it needs water -- the blades turn a darker green and fold inward. When this happens, water deeply. How deep is deep? Generally, water to a soil depth of 15 to 20 centimetres. Depending on the type of soil you have, this translates into about 2.5 centimetres of water. (This is where a rain gauge comes in handy.) Watering deeply like this encourages a healthy, deep root system. Fertilizing and weed control FertilizingFertilizing in the late fall with a slow-release, high-nitrogen product gives your grass the boost it needs, when it needs it -- in the early spring when it starts to green up. Apply fertilizers only when the grass is dry. Follow up by watering the lawn for at least 20 minutes to allow the fertilizer to soak into the soil.Alternatively, in the fall, top-dress your lawn with a thin layer of nutrient-rich compost. Weed controlAlthough a healthy lawn is pretty much a weed-free lawn, sooner or later you'll find a stray dandelion or two or encroaching patches of crabgrass. If caught before they become a problem, hand-pulling is one of the most effective ways of controlling weeds in the lawn -- and a satisfying one that's welcome after a particularly hard day.AeratingTo prevent the buildup of thatch (a thick layer of organic material that causes turf grass to become shallow-rooted), aerate your lawn each spring or fall using a coring tool or vertical mower. These mechanisms remove small cores of soil from the surface of the lawn. Once removed, rake the cores into the topsoil.- Credit
- Lorraine Flanigan
-
Hybrid peonies for today's gardens Hybrid peonies for today's gardens
Hybrid peonies for today's gardens ofHybrid peonies for today's gardens Old-fashioned favourites rooted in yesterday's gardens, peonies are coming on strong in contemporary gardens. Large, blowsy blossoms tumble from lush clumps of lacy green leaves, blooming in pinks, reds, yellow, whites — and the newest colour—coral.Peonies used to be a flop in the garden, their weighty flowerheads bowed under the rains of a summer storm but, over the past 40 years, peony growers have been busy developing plants with stronger stems. These are the herbaceous hybrids — peonies that have been bred for their brilliant colour, early bloom time, excellent foliage and sturdy stems that bear those billowing blossoms with greater ease.Flowers in all shapes and sizesSemi-double flower forms are much like the singles, but bear two or three layers of petals that circle a mound of shaggy stamens. Cytherea‚ is one of the best semi-doubles with strong, vigorous stems that bear cherry red, cup-shaped blossoms – they make great cut flowers. The shocking, rosy-pink Paula Fay‚ is another fine semi-double hybrid peony, blooming from early to mid-season.Crowded with layer after layer of ruffled petals, the double flower forms number among the showiest of the herbaceous peonies. The rich red, double blossoms of Red Charm‚ smother the central stamens with flounces of petals ruffled at the edges. Pretty-in-pink Bess Bostoce‚ is another double beauty with soft pink petals and a mildly alluring fragrance.The fourth type of flower form is the Japanese or anemone-flowered peony. The distinguishing feature of this elegant flower is the cluster of stamens which have been transformed into slender petals called stamenoids or petaloides. Many Happy Returns‚ is a prolific blooming anemone-flowered hybrid peony with warm red petals randomly edged in yellow. And, the clear pink petals of the anemone-flowered Show Girl‚ embrace creamy yellow petaloides.Care and feeding of peoniesPlace them in full sun or light shade, give them well-drained fertile soil, and most peonies will respond with bouquets of blossoms. An early spring application of a low-nitrogen fertilizer such as 5-10-10 wouldn't go amiss, nor would a summer mulch — it helps to suppress weeds, keeps the ground cool and moderates soil moisture levels, all of which add up to a stress-free peony ready to concentrate on blooming. To encourage the peony to produce larger flowers (but fewer of them), some people remove all but the “terminal” flowerbud, the bud at the very end of each stem. But the newer herbaceous hybrid peonies often produce only one bud per stem, making this task, along with staking, unnecessary. Once peonies have finished flowering, pinch out the spend flowers just below their base. This prevents the plant from devoting its energies to producing seeds, instead focusing its efforts on developing flowers for next year.- Credit
- Lorraine Flanigan
-
Garden trends Garden trends
Garden trends ofGarden trends Would you rather spend time in your garden or with your spouse? According to a recent Ipsos-Reid survery conducted for HGTV Canada, 21 per cent of Canadians prefer the backyard to the bedroom. That's not the only dirty little secret revealed. It seems one in five homeowners compete with neighbours for best garden and greenest lawn, while another 17 per cent admit to stealing flowers from other people's gardens. If you prefer to do it yourself than to snip and run, Kathy Renwald can help. "Everything starts with the quality of the soil," says the host of HGTV's Calling All Gardeners and Gardener's Journal. She suggests adding compost to the garden to improve the soil.If you're itching to get your hands dirty, read up on the best plants for your zone. "Plant the things that will be happy there," she explains. "They'll be able to fend for themselves and you'll be able to enjoy your garden more because it won't be such a chore." Garden trendsGardening trends tend to go in cycles and this year sees a great resurgence of annuals. "They are so much more interesting than they used to be," says the master gardener. With so many beautiful pots on the market, container gardening continues to dominate, particularly for those who do not have large yards but who still want a landscaped look. Water gardening also returns, with the use of ceramic and dwarf aquatic plants to add visual interest. Even with all the new garden accessories and designs, you shouldn't disregard the basics. "People tend to forget the importance of shrubs and trees," she says. "Once they get a good start, you don't have to do anything with them." Small flowering trees are also easy to integrate into a garden and ornamental grasses not only give your landscaping height, but almost maintenance-free elegance. If you're still uncertain as to how to proceed with your garden, take a peak over the fence. "People shouldn't overlook what their neighbour is doing," says Kathy. "It's a great way to learn, and if they can do it in their garden, then you can do it in yours as well." Just don't steal their flowers.- Credit
- Heather Camlot
-
Flowering shrubs Flowering shrubs
Flowering shrubs ofChoosing the right shrub Fragrant lilac, colourful quince and frothy spirea-early spring is one of the best times of the year to select and plant these and other flowering shrubs. At the nursery, rows and rows of stick-like potted shrubs wave their tags before our eyes, tempting us with full-colour glamour shots of the stunning blossoms they promise to produce in the seasons to come. Selecting a beauty from this bevy of leggy-branched shrubs may seem like an impossible task, but by doing your homework and working up a little sweat, your shrub will soon be the belle of the neighbourhood. Choosing the right shrubBefore visiting the nursery, decide what kind of shrub is best suited to your garden. Select a plant that will grow into the space you have-not outgrow it. At first, the young shrub may look a little small for the garden but, sooner than you think, its branches will be reaching outwards and upwards to fill the space. After developing a short-list of shrubs of the right size, find out which ones grow best in the conditions of your yard. If your garden is shady, choose a shade-lover such as serviceberry, dogwood or some of the shade-tolerant honeysuckles. If you have heavy clay soil, forget about growing rhododendrons unless you're prepared to work hard to modify the soil to the liking of these prima donnas.Once you've decided on the right shrub for your site, it's time to take a hard look at the plants for sale at the nursery. Not all plants are created equal. Look for a good, vase-like shape-these are shrubs with straight branches stretching outward rather than ones with twisted stems or branches that grow into the centre. Examine the bark, looking for uniform colour; a deeper tone towards the tips of branches and stems usually indicates that they've been affected by the frosts of winter. These dead tips will need to be pruned off after the shrub is planted. If the plant has produced leaves, check that they're a good green colour rather than yellow, and that they show no signs of wilting. Watering and planting Water, water, waterBefore planting, give the shrub a good, long drink of water. Let it soak up the water for a few hours or overnight before removing it from the container. Easy plantingDigging the hole is one of the most important steps in ensuring the health of your plant. Be generous. The hole should be twice as wide as it is deep, yet deep enough to accommodate the roots of the shrub. To encourage the roots to grow into the surrounding ground, loosen the soil by scoring the sides of the hole with a shovel. At the bottom of the hole, place a few shovels-full of the existing soil mixed with some compost, peat moss or Triple Mix (a commercial combination of topsoil, manure and compost). Sprinkle the bottom with some bonemeal in the proportions recommended on the package. Before placing the shrub into the hole, tease out the roots, spreading them out into the hole. (Plants that are very pot-bound may need to be scored with a knife to loosen the roots.)Back-fill the hole with the remaining soil mixture so that the shrub sits at the same level as it was growing in the pot-not so high that soil covers the base of the branches and stems, and not so low that the tops of the roots are exposed. The best head start you can give your newly planted shrub is water. Keep it well watered with long, deep drinks from a soaker hose or sprinkler applied at least once a week for the next four to six weeks. To help the plant conserve water, mulch it with shredded pine bark or leaves. After giving your shrub all this attention, stand back and watch it show off its fancy foliage and flowers.- Credit
- Lorraine Flanigan
-
Roof gardens: 9 expert tips Roof gardens: 9 expert tips
Roof gardens: 9 expert tips ofRoof gardens: 9 expert tips 1 POTS & CONTAINERS: Choose an overall design theme. Most people end up with various sizes of terra cotta pots scattered about on the patio.(Terra cotta dries out extremely quickly and plant roots get 'baked' making it hard to keep anything besides geraniums alive.) This sort of 'eclectic' look works well in small gardens where there is plenty of greenery and shade but falls flat in a modern condo. There are a number of different and more modern containers on the market, if you really are committed to having a roof garden then consider having custom built, insulated planters made.2 SOIL: Regular triple mix will never work; it's easily compacted and there are no worms to aerate the soil. A high quality container mix with a slow (preferably organic) release fertilizer and plenty of Perlite or Vermiculite is well worth the money. 3 DRAINAGE: If you have a large container, it's important that the bottom has 'feet' or at least some space for air to move and water to drain out of pots. This is especially important if the balcony above you overshadows your balcony. Lining pots with filter cloth will stop soil particles from creeping out through drainage holes.4 WEIGHT: If you are undertaking a big project on your patio or balcony, make sure that the structure can support all the extra weight. Saturated soil and concrete or clay pots can really add a lot of weight.5 PLANTS: Having a beautiful set of pots is fine but be sure to choose appropriate plant material. Perennials are worth investing in if your containers are deep enough to support new growth and are insulated or protected enough from wind and elements to ensure winter survival. There are a number of wonderful annuals to choose from. Balance your flowers with foliage - an everyday Boston fern looks beautiful in the right setting and requires little maintenance or sunlight.6 FLOORING: Just as a beautiful floor increases the value inside a home, it makes a dramatic difference on a patio. Most condos have very generic concrete pavers, making for an impersonal and cold look. Simply installing decking over the existing pavers (be sure not to drill into anything or compromise the roof membrane in any way) makes a world of difference.Aside from using wood there are a number of recycled decking materials on the market with different patterns, finishes and colours.7 SPACE: Consider how you want to use the patio space; is it a place to entertain, to retreat to or a beautiful view from the office? Decorate outside in a similar way to decorating inside – candles and cushions soften a space and add a romantic feel, sculptures and stones can add a natural feeling. Any garden should reflect the styles and tastes of the people who live there; usually it's a place to relax the rules a little.8 MAINTENANCE: Choose plant material that's easy to maintain. Bonsais may be gorgeous but can be tricky to care for. Flowering plants usually require the spent blooms to be pinched back to encourage continuous blooms (often once seeds are produced a plant's need to continue blooming diminishes.) Watering is essential and easily forgotten when the weekend cottage rush takes hold. If your patio receives full sun all day consider moving pots closer to a shadier area or having someone come by to do the watering for you.9 CAUTION: A few final things to consider are factors such as wind: many city patios are prone to sudden gusts of wind or a constant breeze so be careful with lightweight plastic furniture. Candles left outside can turn into a messy pool of wax at the end of a hot summer day and terra cotta pots dry out very quickly and break if tipped over by wind or a careless foot - many types of pots on the market are made of polyurethane and won't easily break or split open in the winter when freezing temperatures hit. -
Planning a balcony garden Planning a balcony garden
Planning a balcony garden ofPlanning a balcony garden 1 Building regulations Find out what limitations you must follow as determined by the building management. Are you allowed to attach anything to the building or railings?2 Weight restrictions For anything more than a few pots and chairs, be sure to find out the maximum weight your balcony can handle. A half barrel loaded with wet soil weighs about 200 pounds.3 Watering How will you water your plants? If there is no outside faucet available, try connecting a lightweight coil hose to your kitchen or bathroom tap. Otherwise you may have to ask yourself, "How many buckets of water am I willing to carry across my living-room carpet?" In the heat of the summer some small containers will need water twice a day.4 Drainage Ideally there should be a sloped floor with a drain and perhaps open-weave rubber mats to protect the floor surface. Otherwise excess water may drip to your neighbour below. Plant saucers will help but they should be emptied after watering so that your plants are not sitting in water. 5 Access Gardening off the ground means bringing all the bags of soil, containers and plants up the elevator. Be sure the trees and shrubs you order will fit into the elevator.6 Exposure to sun and wind Understand your growing conditions so that you can choose the right plant for the right place. Full sun is more than six hours of sunlight per day. Constant winds at high altitudes can dry out and knock over containers very quickly. Select tough plants and provide a windbreak. Hardy plants may overwinter if they are at least 2 zones hardier than where you live. 7 Containers La