Recipe: Red hot banana ice cream
Once upon a time, Jake worked at Boulevard (not a street corner but an actual, famous San Francisco restaurant!). It’s the longest job he’s ever held down: four whole years. Two of Jake’s biggest mentors there were Boulevard’s chef/owner Nancy Oakes and the late, great pastry chef Heather Ho. At a time when most restaurants were simply plopping crème brûlée on the table, Heather was already breaking boundaries into savoury desserts. One of Jake’s favourites was a banana tarte tatin with Red Hot ice cream. The flavour combination struck him as genius and stuck with him ever since. And yes, we use actual Red Hots—why try to duplicate a thing that is already perfect? That’s why Humphry Slocombe will never be fully organic.
This is a unique, addictive flavour and one guaranteed to get eaten immediately—but if your Red Hot Banana doesn’t go away after a few days, you might have to go to the doctor.
- 3 ripe bananas, sliced
- 1 cup brown sugar
- ½ cup water
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 1 cup whole milk
- 1 tsp salt
- 3 egg yolks
- 1 cup granulated sugar
- ½ cup Red Hots, chopped (yessir, the ones from the candy aisle)
1 In a large, heavy-bottomed, nonreactive saucepan over medium heat, combine the bananas, brown sugar, and water. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the bananas are completely mushy, about 10 minutes. (Watch out for burning. Burning is bad.) Transfer to a blender, reserving the saucepan. Process the banana mixture to a smooth purée. Set aside.
2 Fill a large bowl or pan with ice and water. Place a large, clean bowl in the ice bath and fit the bowl with a fine-mesh strainer.
3 In the reserved saucepan over medium heat, combine the cream, milk, and salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until hot but not boiling.
4 Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the banana purée, egg yolks, and granulated sugar until well blended.
5 Remove the cream mixture from the heat. Slowly pour about half of the hot cream mixture into the yolk mixture, whisking constantly. Transfer the yolk mixture back to the saucepan with the remaining cream mixture and return it to medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly with a rubber spatula and being sure to scrape the bottom of the saucepan so it doesn’t scorch, until the liquid begins to steam and you can feel the spatula scrape against the bottom of the pan, 2 to 3 minutes.
6 Remove the custard from the heat and immediately pour it through the strainer into the clean bowl you set up in the ice bath. Let cool, stirring occasionally.
7 Transfer the custard to an ice cream maker and spin according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Right after spinning, fold in the Red Hots. Eat immediately, or transfer to an airtight container, cover, and freeze for up to 1 week.
Makes 1 quart.
BUY THIS BOOK
Excerpted from Humphry Slocombe Ice Cream Book by Jake Godby and Sean Vahey Copyright © 2012. Photography by Frankie Frankeny. Excerpted by permission of Chronicle Books. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.