Stir-fry noodles with seared scallops

Overcooking rice vermicelli ruins it. The threadlike strands go from pliable noodles to soggy mush in a matter of seconds. Christine Ha dips hers in boiling water for literally 10 seconds before instantly shocking them in ice water to stop the cooking. Because the rice vermicelli is meant to be stir-fried, you're not trying to cook it long enough to make it tender and toothsome, only long enough to soften it. In a little hot oil in the wok, the noodles will become tender and perfect in about 30 seconds.

Like a lot of Asian dishes, this one is all about prep. The actual cooking takes a matter of moments, but that's only once everything is completely ready to go and lined up next to the wok. It's also crucial not to overcook the scallops. Heat the saute pan to blazing hot--don't be afraid to turn up the heat to high. If you're timid, the scallops will steam and not brown.

Ingredients
For the noodles

• 3 tablespoons fish sauce
• 3 tablespoons soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons chicken stock
• 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
• 1 tablespoon mirin
• 1-1/2 teaspoons rice vinegar
• 1-1/2 tablespoons sugar
• 8 ounces dried rice vermicelli, soaked in cold water for 30 minutes
• 2 tablespoons canola oil
• 3 shallots, diced
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
• 1 tablespoon peeled, finely chopped fresh ginger
• 1 pound oyster mushrooms, halved if large
• 2 carrots, peeled and julienned
• 2 scallions, thinly sliced

For the scallops

• 16 large sea scallops
• Kosher salt
• 2 tablespoons canola oil
• 2 tablespoons chili oil
• Sprigs fresh cilantro