Wine & spirits: Barolo

Limited-production bottlings from fine Barolo producers -- like Conterno, Rinaldi, Bruna Grimaldi, Renato Ratti, Marchesi di Barolo, Pio Cesare and Gianni Gagliardo -- pop up all the time in specialty liquor stores in Canada, although selection, availability and prices vary widely from province to province and from year to year. Current releases include Terredavino 2003 Barolo Essenze ($45), a rich, strong, supple and tasty wine blended from some of the top sites in the region. Red meat could not find a better partner. Another is Cabutto 2003 Barolo Tenuta La Volta ($56), with its tantalizing aromas of black cherry, plum, violets and spice; supple velvety texture; and a luscious, dry finish.

Barolos from the larger producers, Fontanafredda Barolo 2004 ($30) and Beni di Batasiolo Barolo 2004 ($32), are widely available, dependable and adequately reflect the regional grandeur. Special bottlings, such as Fontanafredda's elegant Vigna La Rosa 2000 ($69) and Beni di Batasiolo's full-bodied Vigneto Boscareto 2000 ($66), are available from time to time and at a good price. A quick search of your local liquor board's website should pinpoint stores that carry them. Alternatively, you can contact the wine's local agent.

Read more in Food & Entertaining and Wine & Spirits