Food & Entertaining - Wine & Spirits

Wine & spirits: Cin-cin!

Aperitifs: The perfect way to get a meal off to the right start

One of the least known French delicacies is Pineau des Charentes. It was created in error centuries ago in the Cognac region, when fresh grape juice was accidentally poured into a barrel partly filled with brandy. The resulting mixture turned out to be a delicious concoction with an enthralling aroma and heady taste -- fruity, honeyed, nutty and baked, all at once. Marnier ($18) and Reynac ($17) are listed in some provinces. Pineau is served chilled in small wineglasses, or over ice with a twist of citrus peel.

There was certainly no mistake made in creating the popular Dubonnet ($11). This fortified wine-based drink is available in two styles: an oak-aged red with vibrant blackcurrant flavours, and an amber gold version with a bitter mandarin aroma and rich, dried apricot flavours.

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Of all the classic aperitifs around, the prize for the most underappreciated fortified wine must go to Spain's famous ultra-dry fino sherry. The austere, nutty, barrel-aged taste of Tio Pepe Fino Sherry ($15) is a model of adaptability when washing down a wide variety of foods.

The perfect aperitivo quickly relaxes guests and encourages light snacking. Complementary morsels might include spiced olives or olive tapenade, roasted or flavoured nuts, cheese straws, prosciutto-wrapped figs, baby shrimp, gougère, sushi, seafood, onion tarts and savoury biscuits. Bites should be small -- nothing sloppy or hard to chew. Risotto, for example, might otherwise be considered out of the question, but presented in mini-portions, it often ends up the wine-pairing highlight of the evening.

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