Wine & spirits: Oh pinot!

Good gulps: Burgundy's best
Labels won't say "Pinot Noir"; you're expected to know that. Instead, Burgundy's wines are categorized by a complex set of rules that focus on terroir (site). Grand Cru are the best sites (labels indicate only the name of the vineyard; for example,
Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot, Musigny). Premier Cru wines are the next best (name of the nearest village precedes name of the vineyard; for instance, Beaune-Bressandes, Pommard-Les Épénots). Finally, those in the lowest ranks get a simple village designation (Morey-St.Denis, Nuits-St.Georges) or show a subregional name (Bourgogne-Hauts Côtes de Beaune ). Bottlings from the most famous historic sites may set you back $150 or more. Exceptional values priced from $50 may be found from time to time. It's most important to buy from a reliable grower and merchant. Look for trusted names like Boisset, Bouchard, Drouhin, Jadot, Jaffelin, Louis Latour and Olivier Leflaive.

Price pleasers
These cheapies offer a sense of what Pinot Noir can achieve, and they go well with a range of foods. They're usually available in most parts of the country.
Cono Sur (Chile) $10
Pinossimo (France) $14/1 L Tetra Pak
Twin Fin (California) $12
Kim Crawford (New Zealand) $20
Konzelmann Vineyards (Ontario) $12
Gray Monk Estate (British Columbia) $16

(Prices will vary in local markets.)

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