Wallpaper is a great way to show off your sense of style. Why not display your do-it-yourself talent, as well?
Paper trail
First-timers should work with a durable, DIY-friendly paper such as vinyl, says Jerry Aleksic, owner of Artistic Design Decorators in Toronto. According to Jerry, striped wallpaper is best avoided, as separate pieces can be difficult to match. Plain paper, or paper with a busy pattern can be more forgiving.
To determine the amount of wallpaper you'll need, add the lengths of all your walls and multiply by the single height. Subtract door and window areas, then add an emergency 15 per cent to the total.
Hang time
After cleaning, spackling, sanding and priming the walls, it's time to begin. "The first sheet you put up is going to be your worst one," says Jerry. "By the time you get to that focal point you want to have some experience."
First, start in an inconspicuous spot, like behind a door or in a corner. Find the centre of that wall and draw a straight "plumb line" from the ceiling to the baseboard, against which you'll hang the paper. Mark off the rest of the wallpaper-width.
Cut strips to the height of your wall plus four to six inches for overhang, ensuring that the pattern of your wallpaper aligns. Roll the paste evenly and thoroughly on the back of the paper, beginning from its centre. Fold -- without flattening -- the top and bottom edges into the middle, pasted sides in and ensure the edges are aligned. This process, known as booking, allows the adhesive to penetrate the paper and keeps it wet until needed.
Unfold the top half of the strip and align with the plumb lines and with the ceiling, leaving a couple of inches for trimming. Work out air bubbles or wrinkles with a smoothing brush.
Be as precise as possible with the first sheet. "If your first sheet is not put on straight, it's only going to get worse and worse," warns Jerry. If you come across any problems, pull the paper off the wall without sliding it around. Wipe off any excess paste with a damp sponge, then continue with the bottom half of the strip.
For strip number two, align without overlapping the pattern starting from the ceiling. "Once you've matched the top two feet, everything will fall into place," says Jerry. Smooth out the paper and roll the seam 10 minutes later.
With a few strips completed, use a broadknife or scraper to crease the ceiling line and the line at the baseboards. Holding the broadknife in place, use a utility knife to trim the excess paper.
Tough spot: Windows
Cut the overlapping paper along the sills. Press the paper against the left and right casings and trim excess. Paste matching paper, with half an inch overhang, over the top and bottom casings and tuck the overlap underneath the corners of the facing walls.
Now stand back and admire your handiwork. If only you could wrap gifts with such finesse.
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3 Comments
I recently papered a feature wall in my dining room and didn't know you had to put the paste on the back of the paper. Instead I rolled the paper on the wall.......I don't recommend that. It must be soooo much easier doing it the suggested way. Too bad I didn't read this article first! Thanks for the tips just the same, I'll know for next time.
There are wallpapers with 'Paste The Wall' technology that allow you to roll the paste on the wall and then paste up the dry paper, but you need by buy wallpapers designed for this. They are actually easier to put up, because there's no booking time and you don't have to carry around wet sheets (they are also pretty forgiving if you have to shift it around on the wall). They also come down really easily - you don't need to use chemicals or scrape - just tug one corner and the whole sheet comes down. I helped a friend do a bathroom with this stuff and it wasn't too hard.
Hi! I have alway found that if you put a slight bit of wallpaper paste watered down on the wall first with a roller and then put your pasted wall paper on you get a great result. I have done oa lot of wall paper this way!!Don't roll your seams too hard!