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How to: Build a deck How to: Build a deck
How to: Build a deck ofYour plan, tools and materials With such a sliver of time to enjoy the outdoors, building a deck to sit outside is an attractive option for most Canadian homeowners. But like any home renovation project, the design and construction of a deck requires a skilled hand -- or at the very least a well-researched one. With the help of Jon Eakes, Canada's home improvement expert for 30 years and author of Do It Yourself (DK publishers, 2007), the following is everything you need to know to build a safe, enjoyable and durable deck for your home. Before you begin: Have a planThe last thing any homeowner wants is an accident, so make sure your deck design plan eliminates any and all safety hazards that may arise. Ask yourself the following:1 What are the rules and regulations of my municipality?Municipal rules and regulations are unique to each community, so be sure you understand what restrictions apply to you. 2 Will my deck block municipal access to hydro? If your deck or fence is blocking access to hydro, the city won't think twice about bulldozing through in an emergency!3 If a swimming pool is involved, think about neighbourhood kids Will your new deck provide free access to the pool? Could a child fall into the pool from the deck? Do you need an alarm or special latch for the entrance onto your deck? Run through every scenario and to avoid the worst from happening.4 Get the proper permitsAvoid headaches before they start with the proper permits for your deck's dimensions.Essential deck-building toolsEakes suggests collecting the following tools before you begin: • Circ (Circular) saw• Hand saw for finishing • Impact wrench -- these really drive the screws into the wood. Most hardware stores have impact wrenches for rent or sale. • Electric screwdriver• Pneumatic (air-powered) nailer -- essential for fixing up your fence or railing. • Gloves, safety goggles, dust mask. Wear a mask especially if you're working with cedar -- the natural insect repellent in cedar can cause violent reactions in some people. WoodPressure-treated wood is the strong and durable standard. Even specialty decks are built with pressure-treated wood with specialized wood varieties laid on top. Tip: Eakes cautions against using the extremely light or white-coloured woods. "It's like being on a boat all day -- the reflection of sun in your eyes can be blinding," he says. White railings may be a more attractive alternative. Waterproofing and stainsPressure-treated wood already has some waterproofing done at the factory. Eakes says you need to wait and let the wood weather before staining and waterproofing, the length of time depending on your wet or dry climate. He suggests sprinkling water onto the wood -- if the water soaks into the wood it's ready for staining and waterproofing (never waterproof then stain -- the stain won't stick.) Tip: If you're thinking of using an opaque stain, Eakes strongly advises reading the can first. "They all say 'Not for horizontal surfaces' because opaque stains are for fences and rails -- they can't stand the traffic [on a deck floor]," he says. If you want a splash of colour for on your deck, he recommends using a transparent stain. HardwareYou will need either:• Double-dipped galvanized nails - indicated for ACQ (Alkaline copper quaternary) lumber, or; • Stainless steel nails if you live in a very wet climateWhy not regular nails? On January 1, 2004, Canada halted the distribution of CCA (Chromated copper arsenate) wood for residential construction due to the toxic arsenic and replaced it with ACQ lumber which contains no arsenic but much more copper. Though less toxic, ACQ lumber literally dissolves aluminum nails, making your deck unstable and hazardous within a couple of years. Eakes says if a contractor offers to build your deck for an unbelievable price, he or she is likely not using the more expensive but necessary hardware. In wet environments where the deck never truly dries out, stainless steel is your safest bet. Read more about pressure treated lumber on Eakes' site: joneakes.comJon Eakes has been Canada's home improvement guru for 30 years. His latest book, Do It Yourself (DK publishers, 2007), outlines even more decking tips plus over 400 home improvement projects. Design techniques, stairs and railings, decking extras Design techniquesDecks can quickly become expensive, and when people creep over their budget they begin to cut corners. How can you tell if the deck of your dreams is in your budget? "Live on the deck before you build it," says Eakes. He suggests laying out the parametres of the deck you think you want with rope or a garden hose, including stairs and an entrance. Place pickets in the corners and host a barbecue. "Make a rule that anyone who steps over the rope has fallen off the deck and gets no more beer," he jokes. During the party, guests will move the ropes and stretch the deck into what's naturally comfortable. You'll be able to see traffic paths: where the kids are running and how to route them, whether the chef is in an awkward corner, or if the steps are in the wrong spot. After the barbecue, take a look at the revised space and see if it truly fits your budget. If a tiny deck is all you can afford, maybe build a few steps and create a patio instead. The foundationThe most beautiful deck is worthless atop a bad foundation. Dust off the old shovel and prepare to dig four deep holes for your posts. Generally, the postholes must be below the maximum frost depth to ensure frozen soil doesn't heave the posts upwards. Check with local codes to see exactly how deep they must be. Eakes' perfect post tip: Pour concrete in the bottom of your holes - just three to four inches deep. Let it dry. Place your 4x4 or 6x6 on top of this dried concrete. Don't lock the posts into place -- let everything just stand. Build the basic frame of your deck while your posts are still loose. "This way the tops are all nailed together and it's just the bottoms that are twisting. Small mistakes are always made in the post digging, but now the posts will line up perfectly," he explains.Secure your boards to hold the basic framework and then fill in the holes with concrete to stabilize the structure. Laying down the floorDespite best intentions, your floorboards will never line up perfectly. While most people tend to begin the floor against the house and work outwards, Eakes suggests beginning on the outside perimeter of your deck and working towards your house. "You'll always have an ugly board, but if it's tucked against the house it gets hidden," he explains.Building stepsAwkward or poorly built steps will make your deck the last place anyone wants to be. Eakes outlines a few step-building essentials:• Avoid having slopes or surfaces that slip when they're wet.• If you have more than two steps, you need a handrail.• Ensure all your steps are equal! "Humans are creatures of habit," he says. "Our feet memorize how far each step is. If the bottom or top is different, you stumble!" • If you build terraced steps, make sure they're at least one or more than two steps wide -- not 1.5 steps. "These look nice but they're so uncomfortable," he says. RailingsLike decking dimensions, each municipality has unique requirements for railings so be sure your railing complies. Generally, Eakes says railings are never allowed to have horizontal rungs in case kids want to climb, nor can the vertical rungs have spacing larger than four inches -- roughly the size of a baby's head. "The real interest with railings is the health and safety of the people involved and respecting your neighbours," he explains.Eakes' railing tip: If you're going to have a stand-up, cocktail party kind of deck, make sure you have a nice railing that's wide enough to hold a glass. If you know there will be smokers, creatively nail some ashtrays to the railing so your guests don't bring cigarettes into the house. Decking extrasIf you live in an area with high winds such as a coastal area, consider installing temperate glass walls. Eakes says they can be installed all the way around, or just as panels to allow some air to come through. These allow you to enjoy the outdoors without being blown away.Beware the temptation to roof your deck. While most municipalities prevent roofing the deck, Eakes explains this is because owner after owner may add more and more to this roofed deck until it eventually becomes an addition to the house. Built on a poor foundation not strong enough to hold a snow load on the roof year after year, this spells disaster for the last homeowner.When it's time to call in the prosBefore you start, really consider what you have the skills to do -- and not do. You may just need a hardware store professional to help with the design. If your back isn't so good, hire a professional posthole digger. Eakes says they'll enter your yard with a tractor-like gadget and in one hour your postholes are dug. "No broken back and you go on with the rest!" he says.Or, you may just want the finishing or just the structure done professionally. Anything can be accommodated, just make sure you are very specific with your contractor about what you want: where to start, where to stop and how much they need to clean up. Draw up a written contract that specifies what you want them to do so there isn't any confusion. Jon Eakes has been Canada's home improvement guru for 30 years. His latest book, Do It Yourself (DK publishers, 2007), outlines even more decking tips plus over 400 home improvement projects.- Credit
- Colleen Tully
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How to: Design your dream home How to: Design your dream home
How to: Design your dream home ofSetting Design goals You've painstakingly picked out the lot for your new home, or carefully selected your fabulous new condo, and are still basking in your success. But now comes the hard part. Designing your dream home with only the developer's floor plan for reference can be overwhelming, so we talked to the experts. Here's your guide to making even the most difficult design decisions with all the confidence of a pro.1) Setting design goalsBefore the decision-making process begins, it's important to create a vision of what you want your new home to be – and do some prep work before your first design appointment.Build a scrapbook of magazine clippings with colours and styles you like – everything from flooring to faucets. Visit design centres in other developments. "You can go from one display suite to the next and do a lot of comparing," says Adele Rankin, senior interior designer at CHIL Design Group in Vancouver, who managed the interior design for the city's new Millennium Water development. Create a "needs and wants" list, says Kimberly Williams and her team of designers at Kimberly Williams Interiors in Victoria, who worked on the Dockside Green development there. "Know your budget and where you can and can't compromise." Take advantage of marketing tools, such as online visual tours and interior renderings, as well as open houses and browsing days. Talk to other homeowners. "We went to see the house of someone who had bought the same model as my fiancé and me, and asked what they liked and didn't like," says Julie Aston, a new homeowner in Oakville, Ont. Go to your development's design centre and look around. "Touch things, test them out, and bring a digital camera," says Kelly Cooper, a project manager in Toronto, who has done everything from home inspections to setting up sales centres for developers and helping customers navigate sales centres. "Take pictures of everything, then go home and take it all in." Design appointment and help of an interior designer 2) The design appointment“We didn’t expect the appointment would take so long or that there’d be so many things to think about,” says Julie. “We had to pick everything from grout colour to shower enclosure tile, and I couldn’t believe the number of choices there were for each!” The design appointment is where the building of your dream home actually begins. Here’s what you need to know. what to bring Take your wish list and scrapbook to give the designer a point of reference. “And bring pictures and dimensions of any furniture and art that you’re moving into the space,” says Kimberly. how long it will take Appointments typically last from one to three hours. And sometimes they’re broken up into stages – your first appointment may be to decide exterior colours, or there may be a separate one for appliances and cabinetry. the process When it comes to putting everything together, your assigned designer might start by anchoring the home with a room, like the kitchen, or begin with flooring and move up to counters, wall colour, tiles and woodwork. Don’t be afraid to ask questions – use this person’s expertise to guide you. “Sometimes people have a hard time visualizing how different elements will work together,” says Heather Saunders, interior design manager for new-home builder Shane Homes in Calgary. “I make sure that whatever they select works, and will offer alternative suggestions until it all comes together.”3) Call in a designerwhy it’s worth it The person running your design appointment isn’t necessarily going to be an interior designer, advises Anna. “Hire someone you have a rapport with and who’s independent of the developer but familiar with the process. Just tell them you need them for about four hours; if they charge around $150 per hour, it will be well worth the expense,” she says. how they can help “It’s like bringing a realtor with you when you’re buying a house,” says Adele. “An interior designer will be able to point out things you may not be looking at.” Layout and lighting 4) Layout liabilities“Make sure you look very carefully at how the space is planned out,” says Adele. The floor plan is your map to your new home: try to visu-alize ceiling height, room size, sightlines, and the flow of light and traffic throughout. Here are some other things to keep an eye on.Are there too many hallways? Even a large space can feel small if a big chunk of square footage is dedicated to traffic zones. Are there awkward areas, like unusable nooks? Ask the designer about other cumbersome features that may not appear on the layout, such as bulkheads, which can make it hard to hang draperies. Is there enough storage? “Has consideration been given to adding built-ins, or are there places you can adapt for storage, like the area under a stairway?” says Kimberly. “Will you be able to tailor the space to your needs, or is it so rigid that you won’t have any flexibility?” asks Anna. If there’s a formal dining room, could it become something else if you don’t entertain? If there’s a den, could it be opened up to give you a larger living area? How many bathrooms are there? Look at the ratio of bedrooms to bathrooms. “We put in an extra bathroom on our second floor,” says Julie. “It was originally listed on the floor plan as a computer nook, which is probably just a creative way of saying ‘unusable space.’” 5) Shed some light“Most new-development homes have limited lighting,” says designer Anna Simone, co-owner of design firm Cecconi Simone in Toronto. “There’s often only one fixture in the entry hall, one in the bathroom and one in the kitchen.” Here are three ways to ensure your new home is well lit.“Engage a professional to do a proper lighting plan and make sure it’s coordinated throughout,” says Anna. “To put light fixtures in after the fact is often impossible.”Consider the amount of natural light your home is going to get. “Then ensure there are provisions for task, ambient and decorative lighting,” says Kimberley. “Find out if fixtures are energy efficient, or if they can be replaced with compact fluorescents.”“To keep the lighting design simple, always light your corners (for intimacy) and your centre (to expand the room), and put them on two different switches,” says Anna. Upgrades 6) Choosing upgradesHow you upgrade depends on how long you plan to live in your new home. If you hope to move in a few years, choose upgrades that are visual and important for resale, such as fancy faucets in your kitchen versus underpadding for your carpets. short-term“I encourage people to look for things of value that will set their homes apart,” says Kelly. “So, if you’re going with granite, it may be a worthwhile investment to select a higher quality of granite.”“Add things people can see, like an attractive backsplash in the kitchen or tile on the stair risers – things you notice right away,” says Heather.“If your home comes with black appliances, upgrade to stainless steel,” says Kelly. “And go for an over-the-stove microwave.” Since the space would be taken up with a range hood anyway, putting the microwave there will give you more room elsewhere for cabinets.long-termDo things that are harder to change later, such as putting in pot lights, adding hardwood throughout, upgrading to a fully tiled bathroom, or switching to a more durable carpet.Look for items of convenience or choose something you’ve always wanted, like six burners on your stove versus a four-burner range if you love to cook.Choose things that fit your lifestyle, like soft-close drawers. “I have them because I have a hot-headed 14-year-old – when she slams a drawer, it slowly closes by itself,” says Heather.best overall value“We chose functional things that will help streamline our life – like a pullout garbage with two bins in the kitchen,” says Julie.Add those things you may regret not having later, such as drawers in the bathroom instead of open shelving or cabinets with doors.“Built-in closet organizers are a really good place to spend your money,” says Kimberly. “And they can take some of the pressure off having to buy a stand-alone dresser for the bedroom.” Do's and don'ts 7) The dos and don’ts of new-home designDO select a neutral palette when it comes to choosing architectural finishes. “People like to add colour when selecting finishes, but they often tire of the colour quickly,” says Anna. “Add it later, with art, an accessory or an area rug.DON'T develop your design around things like the colour of your existing towels when choosing items like tiles or countertops. “The least expensive way to change the look of a room is through paint, towels and bedding,” says Heather. “Two years down the road, you’ll want new towels anyway.” DON’T select different finishes for each room in a small space. “Pick one floor material and one tile and make sure your millwork package is the same throughout,” says Anna. “That will make everything far easier to work with and will make your space look larger than it actually is.” DO follow up after your design appointment to make sure nothing got missed. “I realized later that we hadn’t picked tiles for the entry into the garage or for the main-floor powder room,” says Julie. DO read your contract before you sign. “It’s all there in writing, so don’t miss that opportunity to ask questions or address any concerns,” says Kelly. 8) Getting what you paid forResearch your developer: find out what their track record is, what customizations they offer, how they’ve handled problems in the past, and the rules for visiting your home while it’s under construction. Negotiate as much as you can, right from the start. “You have the most power at the time you make the agreement of purchase and sale,” says Kelly. “Think about what you want and then negotiate up front – you’ll discover what they can and can’t change.” You may be able to determine the markup percentage on upgrades or guarantee your completed unit will match the floor plan in your contract. Protect yourself. “Ask the developer to deposit money for upgrades into a trust account, so it’s only withdrawn when items are delivered,” says Kelly.- Credit
- Sydney Loney
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How to: Pick the right garage door How to: Pick the right garage door
How to: Pick the right garage door ofDecide on the material The garage door has become such a prominent part of the façade of new homes that manufacturers now offer more style and colour choices than ever before. “It’s important to make the garage door look beautiful,” says Bette Davies of Richards-Wilcox Canada, a manufacturer based in Mississauga, Ont. “It’s not part of the background of your home, as many people think.” We talked to a few industry experts about some of the options to consider when you’re in the market for a handsome new garage door.Decide on the materialWhen researching your options, there’s lots to think about: durability, maintenance, design, cost. “Wood doors can take more abuse than steel ones, which show dings and dents, and can even be pierced and start to rust,” says Francesco Di Sarra of Capoferro Design Build Group in Toronto. “The most commonly used wood is cedar, but you can get anything you want if you have the budget, even mahogany.” There’s also the question of aesthetics. “I like to match the style to the house windows,” says Eric Adelman of the custom-design company South Park Design Build in Toronto. “For wood and stone houses, I might stain the garage door. The idea is to blend it into the façade – white trim and a white door is a very old-fashioned look. With contemporary homes, you can go crazy with materials, like glass doors and interesting wood designs.” 1 AluminumMany styles, stock colours and designsLow to no maintenanceRustproof, which makes it a good choice for salty or humid environmentsThe light weight of the material makes it less taxing on the operating mechanism, door openers and tracks, not to mention easier to operate manuallyLess durable than steel; dents easily2 SteelAstonishing variety of styles, stock colours and finishesSturdier than aluminumCan rust if scratched or dented3 WoodThe traditionalist’s choice; a range of options for custom design Veneers or overlays offer the look of wood at a lower costRequires regular maintenance (painting or staining)4 Fibreglass/pvc overlayWide choice of styles and designsMore durable than wood and metal, but can crack if hit hardNewer to the market so not as widely available as wood and metalGenerally costs more than metal but less than solid wood Determine the style for your home Determine the style that best suits your homeChoose a door that complements your architecture. “On a traditional house, you might want the door to disappear or blend in. But if your home is modern, you can celebrate that, perhaps by choosing all glass or a unique design,” says Francesco Di Sarra. Below are general guidelines on door styles and features that will match your house type.1) Victorian/georgian/colonialPanelled wood (or lookalikes)Coach house or stable look Divided-light windows, ideally coordinated with house windowsDecorative hardware, like iron hinges or handles2) Arts & crafts/edwardianRaised panels or sectionsArch-top or divided-light windows to match or complement your home’s windows (but nothing too fussy looking)3) ’50s ranch stylePlain finish with simple, horizontal emphasis in design, like wood slats or bandingSimple hardware or windows that create balance with overall composition of home’s exteriorFor a streamlined look, consider forgoing handles4) Contemporary/modernThis style offers the most design freedom – choose materials and details that make a statement Options to consider: stained wood, V-ribbed or horizontal banding, frosted or pebbled glass Colour & finishing details Pick the right colourGenerally, the colour should complement your home and blend in with the overall structure rather than stand out; avoid vivid colours and extreme contrasts.Consider matching the garage door to your home’s window trim rather than to the front door. Or go for a colour that blends in with your siding or brick. For less contrast with red brick, choose a beige or tan that matches the mortar in the brick, instead of a white.Choose finishing details to customize your look and add characterDesign choices aren’t limited to the basic door itself. Many manufacturers offer decorative accents and hardware.panelling Options include multiple square or rectangular sections for creating everything from a colonial to a coach house look.decorative hardware Hinges and handles come in a variety of designs, including a forged-iron look to evoke the styling of a coach house or stable doors.decorative strapping An X or Z shape formed with strapping (and perhaps in a contrasting colour) can introduce a nostalgic country or barn door look.windows Styles include arch tops, divided lights, large panels and etched glass; textured and sandblasted styles are also available for less transparency. Other options Consider other options for convenience & comfortinstallation “Make sure the door is properly installed and maintained,”says Bette Davies. “Installation isn’t a regulated profession yet. For safety reasons, use a reputable company that carries a recognized door brand.”insulation The higher the R value of the door’s insulated core, the more protection from noise and the elements. “Garage use is changing. For a lot of people, it’s not just a place for your car, but a workshop or even extra living space,” says Jean-François Morin of Garaga. “So people are asking for increased insulation – R14 or more – and better weatherstripping to make it more comfortable.” If you use your garage as a workspace, or have a living space over or attached to it, consider a higher R value to save energy and increase comfort.safety Most automatic door openers retract if they sense an obstruction, but you might also want finger guards to prevent pinched fingers. Hire a professional installer – steel doors especially can be dangerous if they fall down.door openers While a ½-horsepower opener will operate all but the largest and heaviest door, it may not last as long as a ¾-horsepower model. At the higher end, in-line openers dispense with chains and have fewer moving parts, so they make less noise. “Some newer automatic openers include track drive, which uses a nylon track and is quieter,” says Philip Coleman of RONA.security According to Philip, there are now some good security features available: a keypad that allows your kids to enter the house through the garage without a key; handleless doors to foil thieves; remotes that change frequencies easily, so only you can program the door.- Credit
- Martha Uniacke Breen
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How to: Buy an air conditioner How to: Buy an air conditioner
How to: Buy an air conditioner ofTypes of air conditioners Three types of air conditioners:The central air conditioner comprises a fan, a compressor and a cooling coil, all of which are housed in a module outside the home. Central air conditioning uses a duct system to distribute cooled air forced from the heating system. It is the most expensive and longest-lasting (more than 15 years) air-conditioning system, providing uniform fresh-air circulation throughout the home. If you don't have forced-air heating, you can turn your attention to a mini- or multi-split air-conditioning system. These systems include a wall-mounted outdoor compressor and a condenser supplying up to three air diffusers. If well maintained, split-system air conditioners can last up to 10 years. If you only have one or two rooms to cool, or if you expect to move any time soon, a room air conditioner – a window unit, a built-in wall unit or a mobile unit you can move from one room to another – may be your best option. A room air conditioner can be expected to keep you cool for at least five years.Reversible mode Some central air conditioners and mini- or multi-split systems feature a heat pump and are therefore reversible. By drawing heat from outdoors and pumping it into your home, a reversible air conditioner can also serve as a heating system – but only as a backup in the spring and the fall. At temperatures lower than 7oC, it no longer provides the performance you need!Seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER)To purchase an energy-efficient air conditioner, look for a unit with a minimum SEER ratio of 12. Better yet, opt for an Energy Star model, which consumes at least 20 percent less energy than a conventional unit. And while heat pumps are not eligible for the Energy Star program, Inverter technology – in contrast to conventional reversible air-conditioning systems – gives you the option of varying compressor speeds based on the ambient temperature in your home.Where a conventional air conditioner stops when the desired temperature is reached, this technology lets the user reduce compressor speed to a minimum. The result? The unit operates on a continuous basis but at a carefully regulated speed – with no costly peak consumption periods.Some air conditioners are equipped with dual compressors: Approximately 40 percent of the energy is consumed by a smaller compressor, and the primary compressor consumes the remaining 60 percent. When the desired temperature is reached, the primary compressor shuts down and the secondary compressor takes over with its lower consumption ratio. Consumers therefore spend less on energy than they would with a conventional machine, which always operates at 100-percent capacity. Power, noise, air quality, design, maintenance, price and warranty Power Always an important consideration: Too much power and your air conditioner may not run for long enough to dehumidify the air; not enough power and you'll never reach the optimal comfort zone. As a general guideline, a 5,000 BTU air conditioner is designed to cool a room measuring 14 square metres.Noise Not so long ago, central air conditioners emitted some 80 decibels (dB); today's models come in at 60 dB and 75 dB. And although the compressor – the source of the noise – is outside the home, experts advise owners to mitigate the noise by creating a “barrier” of conifers. Other systems – mini- or multisplit units or room air conditioners – emit 35 dB to 45 dB. If you use a room air conditioner, more specifically a window unit, and the window frame is unstable, it's likely to make more noise.Air quality Since the refrigerant R-410A (Puron) was introduced in Quebec in early 2006, more and more manufacturers are using it instead of CFC, a refrigerant fluid whose harmful effects on the environment are well documented. In fact, as of 2010, Canadian manufacturers will be obliged to comply with a total ban on CFC use. Already, some air-conditioning units circulate negative ions meant to purify the ambient air, while others have carbon filters to eliminate odours. As we now know, refrigerant fluids are not totally harmless to the environment.Room air conditioners continue to use CFCs – hence the importance of never dumping an old air conditioner in a landfill. Rather, find out where the nearest municipal waste-recovery site is located, or consult the Yellow PagesTM under “recycling.”Design Air conditioners have become more attractive in recent years. With a rounder shape and cleaner lines, today's models do a better job of blending with furnishings. And while white is still popular, we're now seeing blues, metallic greys and even natural wood! A manufacturer of mini- and multi-split models recently went so far as to create an air diffuser behind the front panel – and for a touch of elegance, these models also allow users to frame the front panel with a photograph or a painting! Manufacturers have also worked hard on the appearance of outdoor modules in a bid to harmonize them with landscape design.Maintenance It is important to clean the air filters on a regular basis and remove any leaves or debris stuck in the condenser. Where necessary, the drainage system should also be unblocked. Some models feature automatic filter cleaning, but in general consumers are advised to consult a specialist for the overall maintenance of their air-conditioning system: every two years for mini-split and multisplit units and every three years for central air-conditioning systems.Price and warranty Central air-conditioning systems range from $4,000 to $6,000, and mini- and multi-split systems ring in at roughly $3,000. If you're able to find something considerably cheaper – usually imported – you can be sure that the quality will match the price. For room air conditioners, count on spending at least $300 for a good-quality window unit and up to $800 for a built-in system; mobile air conditioners retail at roughly $1,000. Most central air-conditioning systems come with a 10-yearwarranty on parts (including the compressor) and five years on labour. Mini- and multi-split units generally include a five-year warranty on parts and labour, while warranties for room air conditioners cover even shorter periods. About dehumidifiers About dehumidifiersItchy skin, irritated airways, non-stop colds...the list of ills linked to high humidity goes on. If that isn't enough, ambient humidity, with time, can lead to chronic allergies, damage your belongings and even cause your wood to rot! If you notice condensation build up on your windows, or if your basement is never comfortable, chances are the humidity in your home is too high and something needs to be done about it.First, check the ambient humidity using a mechanical or electronic hydrometer. (The first is often available for under $10 and is accurate within 5 percent; the second is that much more precise and sells for approximately $30.)According to Health Canada, household humidity should hover between 30 and 50 percent – a humidity level of 40 percent or less is recommended for asthma sufferers. A base level of 40 percent also helps to avoid the spread of dust mites, which irritate the respiratory airways and proliferate where humidity is high.When you reach the shopping stage, be sure to take into account the dehumidifier's water extraction capacity, which varies between seven and 24 litres a day depending on the area covered. According to the Office of Energy Efficiency, a daily extraction capacity of at least eight litres is required for a humid room spanning 93 square metres. The extraction capacity of most humidifiers is certified by the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers (AHAM) in the United States. Check the packaging to make sure that the model you've chosen meets this quality standard.Check the unit's energy efficiency ratio (EEF): This will give you a good idea of its annual operating cost. To meet the requirements of the international Energy Star program, the unit's EEF must be at least 1.2 (meaning that it extracts a minimum of 1.2 litres per day).The majority of dehumidifiers reach their optimal efficiency when the ambient temperature is approximately 27oC and the humidity level is 60 percent. But some units function just as well at cooler temperatures – which can be useful if, for example, the temperature in your basement never exceeds 15oC. Other points to consider: Does the dehumidifier have overflow protection? A washable dust filter? A removable tank? An outdoor drain connection? Units with an electronic control panel are preferable, as they are easier to adjust. And don't forget to run the machine to test it for noise!Dehumidifiers range from $200 to $400. The Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation recommends that a dehumidifier be purchased in the spring, when retailers have sales. Of course, make sure to carefully read the warranty, which can vary considerably from one manufacturer to the next. And bear in mind that these auxiliary machines can't perform miracles. In other words, you can take other steps to reduce humidity: Dry your clothes on the line and your wood outdoors; use a fan when you take a shower and a range hood when you cook – since they force humid air out of the house.- Credit
- Isabelle Bergeron
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Allergy relief tips Allergy relief tips
Allergy relief tips ofAllergy relief tricks and tips Breathe easySimple ways to combat common household allergens. Home organization 101: Spring cleaning‘Tis the season to give your home the clean sweep and get on top of you home organizing. 10 spring cleaning tipsRevitalize your hibernating home with simple suggestions. Spring cleaning guideSimple steps to a cleaner, fresher home that will help you start the season off right. Environmentally friendly cleaning productsEnvironmentally friendly cleaning products abound on store shelves. Check out some of your options. Freshen up!Get warm weather-ready with 12 tips that'll make your house shine.- Credit
- StyleatHome.com
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Decor dilemmas Decor dilemmas
Decor dilemmas ofHanging drapery rods Q. Blinds or drapery?"That depends on your budget, your style, the shape of the window and the amount of light and privacy you need in the room. Generally, the clean look of blinds works well in contemporary spaces, and drapery enhances more traditional looks. But a combination of blinds and framing side panels is also a great look, even in contemporary spaces." -- Cynthia Bennett, The Decorating Shoppe, HalifaxQ. How do I determine the right height for hanging a picture on a wall? "As a general rule, centre the piece according to average eye level, which is five feet six inches. (If you have cathedral ceilings, you may want to change the rules a bit and hang some pieces a little higher.) The space where the art hangs should also be considered. For example, on a large wall, smaller pictures may look best in groupings. If you're creating a photo wall, you may want to mix up the heights of the pictures. These rules are just guidelines, but generally the most common mistake is hanging art too high. You should look at art, not up to it." -- Scott Yetman, Scott Yetman Designer, MontrealQ. Faux wood panelling - what's the best way to update it?"If you can't blow it up, whitewash it or paint over it to make it disappear. Faux wood panelling is just wrong, so make it as unobtrusive as possible." -- Dee Dee Taylor Hannah, Taylor Hannah Architect, TorontoQ. What's the rule of thumb for hanging drapery rods?"They should be one to three inches above and beyond the window frame. I like to hang them two inches above and beyond. Whatever you do, don't hang them too high: when the drapes are open, too much wall will be exposed above the window, and the look will be awkward." -- Jacqueline Glass, Jacqueline Glass & Associates, Mississauga, Ont. Q. What's the best way to minimize the appearance of bulkheads?"Treat bulkheads like any other structural element, not like a decorative one. If the walls are eight feet or lower, paint bulkheads the same colour as the ceiling; if the walls are higher than eight feet, paint the bulkhead the same colour as the wall." -- Mitchell Freedland, Mitchell Freedland Design, Vancouver The secret to good lighting Q. What's the correct height for baseboards, and should they match the floors or the walls?“Baseboards should be six to 12 inches high; the higher the ceiling, the higher the baseboard. If the look's traditional, baseboards should be lighter than the walls to contrast and highlight them. If floors are painted, the baseboards should match.” -- Scott Yetman, Scott Yetman Designer, MontrealQ. How can I dress up a plain staircase?"Paint the treads and the handrail highgloss black; paint the risers and balusters white. If you add a carpet runner, leave three inches of stair on either side and install metal rods for extra punch. The staircase landing and walls are great to display art - they can accommodate large prints. For a contemporary look, add accent lighting to the risers. Mix a chandelier on a landing with wall sconces." -- Dee Dee Taylor Hannah, Taylor Hannah Architect, TorontoQ. Matte, glossy, eggshell -- how do you choose a paint finish?"My favourite is flat. It's easy to touch up, and it hides imperfections. Eggshell has a slight sheen that changes over time so touch-ups are noticeable. In bathrooms, kitchens and halls (especially if you have kids who touch the walls), I like eggshell -- it works in well-ventilated bathrooms and in kitchens, but not too close to the cooking area. Use pearl or semigloss on all trim." -- Jane Hall, Jane Hall It's All About Color, TorontoQ. What's the secret to good lighting, and what should be avoided?"Lighting should be soft, warm and welcoming. Keep it closer to the perimeter of the room, so it reflects off the walls and/or the ceiling. Dimmer switches are crucial - add them to any overhead lights and pot lights, as well. Also use light at different levels by combining table lamps and floor lamps. Avoid any bright, direct downlighting, as it causes heavy shadows and isn't that flattering." -- Dan Menchions, II by IV Design Associates, TorontoQ. Should the ceiling be lighter or darker than the walls?"Generally the ceiling should be lighter. Dark ceilings can be heavy-looking, but treated properly they can also be dramatic. For example, a dark grey ceiling and walls in a powder room can be offset by crystal wall sconces, mirrors and candlelight." -- Mitchell Freedland, Mitchell Freedland Design, Vancouver Small spaces Q. There's a radiator under our window – what's the best window covering in this situation?“Wood shutters, wood venetian blinds or sheer Roman blinds with side panels to the floor will frame the window and make the rad less obtrusive.” -- Brian Gluckstein, Gluckstein Design Planning, TorontoQ. How do you create points of interest or focal points in an open-concept space?“Group furniture into conversation areas in larger spaces – place sofas and chairs facing one another for an intimate grouping, or back to back to create two separate points of view. Anchor one or both ends of a large space with substantial or tall items such as an oversize painting, a mirror or a fireplace with art hung above it.” -- Jeffrey Douglas, Douglas Design Studio, TorontoQ. What's the best way to lay out a kitchen?"Follow ‘use patterns.' The best thing to do is live in a kitchen for a while beforehand - if you haven't spent time there, you can't design it. And it may not sound exciting, but if a kitchen doesn't work in a practical sense, then it doesn't matter how beautiful it looks. Some things to keep in mind as you plan: Leave counter space on either side of the stove to place things while cooking. Put the dishwasher beside a sink, so you can move dishes from the sink to the dishwasher without dripping all over the floor. Keep cabinets that hold everyday dishes close to the dishwasher, so it's easy to put the dishes away. If there are small children in the house, give them their own cabinet for dishes and snacks -- it makes them feel like they belong there, too." -- Monica E. Kuhn, Monica E. Kuhn Architect, TorontoQ. Any design tricks to make a small space feel bigger?"Mirrors! They create the illusion of space. Options vary from wall-mounted to freestanding styles, from oversize models to a fitted floor-to-ceiling mirrored wall the entire length of a room." -- Dan Menchions, II by IV Design Associates, Toronto Q. How do you pick the right paint shade for a room?"Consider natural and artificial light and direction. A yellow that's pale in a south-facing room will have more intensity in a north-facing one. Lightbulbs also play a role: fluorescents bring out a colour's undertones but without depth or richness; incandescents add a warm glow; halogens provide sparkle and enhance colour." -- Allison Pluim, Allison Pluim Interior Design, Edmonton Choosing a kitchen work surface Q. Any tips for framing photographs?“A simple wood frame (finished in black or a natural-colour stain) is best for contemporary photos. For a more classic image, try ornate silver or gold. For standard residential purposes, matting should be four inches deep on the top and sides, five inches on the bottom. White mats are best; colour mats should never be used – they distract from the photo. Mats are available in four- or eight-ply (an eight-ply is thicker and therefore more dramatic).” -- Darren Alexander, Darren Alexander Fine Art & Design, TorontoQ. How many different woods/ wood tones can appear in a room?“No more than two woods, and they should be shades of the same tone.” -- Brian Gluckstein, Gluckstein Design Planning, TorontoQ. Is there an easy way to dress up a drab fireplace?“If the fireplace is heavy and dominates the space, a lighter colour will help. Dark brick looks great painted the same colour as the trim or walls. Adding a mantel with nice brackets at either end can enhance a plain surface and provide a spot for accessories and artwork. Seasonal accessories such as candles, flowers and pictures may be all you need to freshen up the look.” -- Cynthia Bennett, The Decorating Shoppe, HalifaxQ. Any suggestions for walls in a hall with a cathedral ceiling?“Position four to six black-and-white or sepia photos, then arrange another grid above that and so on. Make sure the photos are the same size and the frames match. Don't worry if details of the top images can't be seen.” -- Brian Gluckstein, Gluckstein Design Planning, TorontoQ. How do you choose a kitchen work surface?“Your budget tells you what options to look at, then it's function versus aesthetics. How often do you use the kitchen? Will you need more than one type of surface? I like natural materials like granite, limestone, marble and slate. However, they stain and need to be sealed – marble, every six months, limestone, every year, slate every five years. Granite is more stain resistant than marble, and when sealed it's about as easy to clean as a synthetic product. If your budget leans to laminate, choose neutral colours that complement the cabinetry or flooring. Square edges look best – try to stay away from bevelled edges and wood trim.” -- Allison Pluim, Allison Pluim Interior Design, Edmonton- Credit
- Christy Wright
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Molding and millwork Molding and millwork
Molding and millwork ofMolding and millwork Decorative molding and millwork were once the domain of a skilled carpenter. Thanks to the innovations of urethane molding, most first-time decorators can install a wide variety of crown molding, chair rails, door trims, and other architectural accents. Miterless corner systems require only straight cuts. The corner piece is easily matched with the flat end of the molding to create a seamless trim that once took hours of painstaking work. Other millwork that makes a great addition to a room are ceiling medallions, door surrounds, and window trim.CROWN MOLDINGLook at an older home, whether a stately manor or a cozy cottage, and you're likely to find crown molding. Most builders omit this detail in new homes. If you are familiar with working with a saw and miter box, you will find crown molding easy to install. If not, it's a good idea to leave this job for a professional. You can save cost by painting the molding the colour of your choice.Installing crown moldingThe following are instructions for installing crown molding with miterless corners.1 Measure the length of the ceiling. Select the molding profile and inside and outside corners to be used. Subtract the size of the corners from the overall ceiling length.2 For each 10' of space left after you subtract for the corners, add 1" to the overall length. This is the amount of molding you'll need for the ceiling space to ensure a tight fit, which is imperative because molding will expand and contract slightly with changes in temperature.3 Install inside and outside corners to the walls first.4 Use a top-quality urethane construction adhesive along the back of the corners and make certain to cover all joints with adhesive.5 Firmly place the miterless corners into each corner of the wall near the ceiling. Wipe off excess adhesive immediately.6 Fasten the corners in place with nails. Countersink the nails and fill in with wood filler or caulking. Let it dry completely, then slightly sand the surface smooth.7 Using a saw and a miter box, make straight cuts on your molding to fit your measurements.8 Install molding the same way as the corners, securing with urethane adhesive, then nailing in place about every 16". These pieces should fit snugly against the corners.9 On the molding, countersink nails, fill with wood filler or caulking, let dry, then lightly sand the area until smooth. Use a good-quality latex or oil-based paint on the molding and corners. No primer coat is needed.Excerpted from Decorating or the First Time by Eileen Cannon Paulin. Copyright 2004 by Sterling/Chapelle. Excerpted with permission by Sterling/Chapelle. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.- Credit
- Eileen Cannon Paulin
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