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Countertop materials: A guide Countertop materials: A guide
Countertop materials: A guide ofButcher block, ceramic tile and concrete Butcher blockMaple and oak butcher blocks are the most common woods for countertops, although other hardwoods such as cherry, walnut and mahogany are also used. Rock maple is traditional for chopping surfaces because it is hard yet won't damage knife blades. Butcher-block counters are available in several configurations: as wide planks (also called flat-grain) or narrow strips glued together, or end-grain butcher block, made from hundreds of small wood squares laminated together. Wide planks are more apt to warp than narrow strips or end-grain blocks. Butcher block is finished with either mineral oil or polyurethane. Mineral oil prevents the wood from warping and drying out, but will not prevent stains. Polyurethane provides an impenetrable plasticlike coating.• Pros Easy to maintain; can be sanded and reoiled or resealed as needed; looks warm.• Cons Prone to water and stain damage; must be oiled or sealed periodically to prevent drying out and reduce porosity; burns easily and absorbs odours.• Do Apply polyurethane to counters around the sink, since moisture causes wood to crack and split.• Don't use vegetable or olive oils to treat wood, as they can turn rancid; use only food-grade mineral oil.• Periodic maintenance Once a month, or when oiled countertops begin to look dry, reapply oil (never oil butcher block that has been sealed with polyurethane). Place a bottle of food-grade (nontoxic) mineral oil into a bowl of hot (not boiling) water, then rub a generous amount of oil onto the surface with a soft, clean cloth, working with the grain; reapply after the wood soaks up the oil. Continue until the wood stops absorbing oil. Wipe off excess oil, then let the countertops dry for at least six hours or, ideally, overnight, before using. • Repair/restore Badly scratched or stained counters can be sanded smooth, then treated with oil or polyurethane. Use a fine-grit sandpaper (grade 220 to remove stains and 400 to smooth), sanding with the grain of the wood, before reapplying a finish.• How to clean Wipe with a damp cloth and mild dishwashing liquid. Rinse well with a clean, damp cloth. A cloth dampened with fresh lemon juice or white vinegar may remove or lighten stains, and deodorize a surface finished with mineral oil.Ceramic tileCeramic tiles are made from a variety of materials and methods, and offer a range of design possibilities. The most common, traditional glazed tile, is made from clay fired at extremely high temperatures. Its tough, glasslike surface is nonporous, although the grout that holds the tile in place is extremely porous.• Pros Available in many colours, textures, and prices; glazed tile doesn't stain; resists heat and moisture.• Cons Uneven counter surface; installation requires time and attention to detail; tiles can easily chip, scratch, or crack; grout stains easily, tough on dishware and glasses.• Do Consider dark grout when installing tile, as it will show fewer stains than a light one. Treat grout with a sealer to reduce porosity.• Don't use vinegar or anything acidic as a cleaner. It can damage the glaze and harm grout. • Periodic maintenance Seal grout twice a year with a penetrating grout sealer.• Repair/restore Damaged tiles can be replaced by a professional tile installer.• How to clean Wipe with a damp cloth and mild dishwashing liquid. Rinse well with a clean, damp cloth. Tackle tough stains with a mildly abrasive cleanser such as Bon Ami and a soft cloth or a paste of baking soda and water. Grout can be cleaned with nontoxic oxygen bleach, then lightly scrubbed and rinsed.ConcreteTo create countertops, concrete is mixed with pigment, then poured into molds on-site, or precast in a workshop. After it is troweled smooth, it takes several days to dry and harden; it must then be sealed to guard against stains. Concrete counters can be as thick as desired, although anything more than four inches could strain supporting cabinets and floors.• Pros Heat- and scratch-resistant; can be tinted in a wide range of colours; can be molded into different shapes to accommodate integral sinks, drain boards, and decorative edging.• Cons Expensive and heavy; cracking is common; because it is very porous, it stains if not well sealed; tough on dishware and glasses.• Do Reapply sealer when drops of water no longer bead on the surface.• Don't use abrasive pads or cleaners, which can abrade the sealer, making staining more likely.• Periodic maintenance A coat of food-safe paste wax (available from some concrete installers and online retailers), applied on top of the sealer, can add an additional layer of protection.• Repair/restore Hairline cracks are just part of the aging process. Repairing more serious damage depends on the size of the damaged area. Small chips might be repairable; larger ones might necessitate countertop replacement. Either way, consult a contractor; concrete repairs are not do-it-yourself jobs.• How to clean Wipe with a damp cloth and mild dishwashing liquid. Rinse well with a clean, damp cloth. Although a sealer offers protection, spills still must be wiped up immediately with a damp cloth or sponge to prevent staining. Acidic foods and cleaners will etch the surface; cooking oil will leave a mark. Use coasters to prevent ring marks.Page 1 of 4Excerpted from Martha Stewart's Homekeeping Handbook by Martha Stewart. Copyright 2006 by Martha Stewart. Excerpted with permission by Clarkson Potter. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced without permission in writing from the publisher. Engineered stone, granite and marble Engineered stoneThis relatively new countertop material is a composite of rock aggregate (which makes up 90 per cent of its mass), resin, and pigments. Engineered stone is sold under brand names including Zodiaq and Silestone. Available in dozens of colours, it is nonporous and scratch-resistant. The most common (and most durable) engineered stone is made from quartz particles. Because these stones do not contain fissures or veins, the strength of a slab may be more consistent throughout than that of a natural stone. That consistency also makes seams easy to match.• Pros -- Easy to maintain; resistant to stains, heat, scratches, and acid; sealing is generally not required; colour consistent throughout, so scratches are less noticeable than with other materials.• Cons -- Expensive; less natural-looking than marble or granite.• Don't clean with chlorine bleach or products containing chlorine bleach, which can mar the colour of the stone.• Periodic maintenance None• Repair/restore Any damage must be repaired by a countertop professional; consult an engineered-stone installer for advice.• How to clean Wipe with a damp cloth and mild dishwashing liquid. Rinse with a clean, damp cloth.GraniteA popular countertop choice because of its appearance and durability, granite is a siliceous stone made from an extremely hard volcanic rock. It is available in a range of colours and is often flecked with bits of minerals that produce a salt-and-pepper look. There are two types: consistent, which has the same pattern throughout, and variegated, which has veins.• Pros Heat-resistant; beautifully coloured; luxurious; each slab of granite is unique; good surface for working with pastry dough, since it doesn't conduct heat.• Cons Expensive; requires regular maintenance, including periodic sealing; stains; can crack; can be tough on dishware and glasses; variegated granite pieces hard to match.• Do Reapply sealer when drops of water no longer bead on the surface.• Don't use soap, detergent, all-purpose cleaners, or citrus-based cleaners -- products that are too alkaline or acidic can etch stone. Don't use abrasive powders or dusting sprays, which can damage the surface.• Periodic maintenance If the polish dulls, it can be revived with a commercial polishing agent (available from stone suppliers), but this should not be done more frequently than every three or four years, and the counter should be resealed afterward.• Repair/restore If there are deep stains or there's erosion, the stone will have to be rebuffed and resealed by a stone professional.• How to clean Dust once or twice a week with a soft cloth, and wipe periodically with a cloth dampened in warm water and a bit of pH-neutral cleaner formulated for stone (available from stone suppliers).MarbleMarble and other stone countertops are beautiful, and they generally outlast all other kitchen surfaces. But because it is a calcareous stone, marble is softer and more porous than granite. Its permeability makes it susceptible to scratches, chips, and stains, and its luster can be dulled if not properly cared for. Many homeowners choose to confine it to an island or baking centre.• Pros Holds up to heat; beautiful and luxurious; ideal for rolling out dough, since it doesn't conduct heat.• Cons Expensive; must be sealed to protect it from stains; requires regular maintenance; very soft, so it scratches and etches easily; can be tough on dishware and glasses.• Do Reapply sealer when drops of water no longer bead on the surface. Protect marble from acidic foods; vinegar, lemon, and tomato will etch it instantly.• Don't use soap, detergent, all-purpose cleaners, or citrus-based cleaners -- products that are too alkaline or acidic can etch stone. Don't use abrasive powders or dusting sprays, which can damage the surface.• Periodic maintenance See Periodic Maintenance for granite, above.• Repair/restore For stains such as rust marks or oil spots, try a poultice treatment. If marble is badly stained or starting to erode, the stone will have to be rebuffed and resealed by a stone professional.• How to clean Dust once or twice a week with a soft cloth, and wipe periodically with a cloth dampened in warm water and, if necessary, a bit of pH-neutral cleaner formulated for stone (available from stone suppliers).Page 2 of 4Excerpted from Martha Stewart's Homekeeping Handbook by Martha Stewart. Copyright 2006 by Martha Stewart. Excerpted with permission by Clarkson Potter. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced without permission in writing from the publisher. Plastic laminate, slate and soapstone Plastic laminateThe most common -- and usually most affordable -- countertop choice, laminates are made of multiple sheets of kraft paper, like that used for grocery bags, and plastic resins. Brand names include Formica and Wilsonart. The layered paper creates dark edges, which are visible where two pieces of laminate meet. More expensive plastic laminates -- known as colour-through laminates -- retain the surface colour throughout the layers, so nicks and scratches are less noticeable, and there are no dark seams. Laminate countertops are available in granular, matte, or glossy finishes and sold premolded with rounded edges or in sheets, which are glued onto a plywood form on-site.• Pros Inexpensive; sturdy; resists scratches, scuffs, burns, and other normal wear and tear; available in many colours and patterns; easy to clean.• Cons Not stain- or scratch-proof; can be impossible to repair if damaged by burn marks and deep scratches; seams show; potentially costly end finishing and edge choices.• Do Rinse laminate surfaces after cleaning; even a small amount of detergent residue can cause damage -- any moisture the residue comes into contact with can reactivate it, and result in etching.• Don't allow water to pool -- if it seeps into seams, it can cause swelling.• Periodic maintenance None• Repair/restore Repair superficial scratches and small chips with laminate-repair paste, available at home-supply stores in a variety of colours (or you can mix the paste to match your countertop). If the laminate has begun lifting off the substrate below, reattach it with contact cement.• How to clean Wipe with a clean, soft cloth and a mild dishwashing liquid and water, then wipe away streaks with a clean, damp cloth. Treat stains with a paste of 3 parts baking soda to 1 part water; do not rub, as doing so could mar the surface. Wipe away paste with a clean, damp, soft cotton cloth, and then rinse with clean water. (Some stains, such as food dyes or coffee and tea stains, will not disappear right away, but may with repeated cleanings.)SlateTraditionally used to make durable rooftops and walkways, slate can be formed into kitchen counters that are at once classic and modern. It comes in deep greens, blues, greys, and purples, and has a matte surface and a distinctive cleft pattern. Although it is less porous than granite or marble, and less prone to staining, most stone professionals recommend sealing slate to be on the safe side.• Pros Heat-resistant; timeless; natural style; luxurious.• Cons Expensive; brittle; scratches and chips easily; tough on dishware and glasses.• Do Reapply sealer when drops of water no longer bead on the surface.• Don't clean with abrasive cleaners or dusting sprays, which can damage slate (and other natural stones).• Periodic maintenance Aside from sealing, none.• Repair/restore Slate is less susceptible to etching from acidic cleaners and foods than other stones. It does scratch easily, however. Small scratches can be sanded away with fine sandpaper. If your slate countertop cracks, the entire countertop will have to be replaced. Consult a general contractor for advice on how to deal with the damage.• How to clean Dust once or twice a week with a soft cloth, and wipe periodically with a cloth dampened in warm water and, if necessary, a bit of pH-neutral cleaner formulated for stone (available from stone suppliers).SoapstoneNamed for its smooth, soapy touch, soapstone is composed of mineral talc, quartz, and other minerals. It starts out light grey in colour but darkens significantly as it ages. (Frequent applications of mineral oil hasten the darkening process.) It is used for science laboratory counters because of its resistance to acids and alkalis, which means that chemicals or cleansers won't cause it to deteriorate. Soapstone is both softer and less porous than granite.• Pros Rich, deep colour; smooth feel; doesn't stain easily; very resistant to heat. • Cons Expensive; requires regular maintenance; may crack and darken over time; scratches and chips easily; hard on dishware and glasses.• Don't apply any type of sealer to soapstone.• Periodic maintenance After the initial installation, you will need to apply mineral oil over the entire surface often. Apply weekly to monthly until the counter stops darkening, which can take a year or more. After that, reapply mineral oil about every six months.• Repair/restore Remove small scratches with fine sandpaper or try rubbing them out with mineral oil. If the stone cracks, the entire countertop will need to be replaced. Consult a general contractor to assess the situation.• How to clean Wipe with a cloth dampened with water and mild dishwashing liquid.Page 3 of 4Excerpted from Martha Stewart's Homekeeping Handbook by Martha Stewart. Copyright 2006 by Martha Stewart. Excerpted with permission by Clarkson Potter. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced without permission in writing from the publisher. Solid surfacing, stainless steel and zinc Solid surfacingSolid-surface countertops, including the brand names Corian and Avonite, are a blend of acrylic polymers and materials derived from natural stone. To form countertops, the composite is poured into molds. Counters are generally about half an inch thick, although usually thicker on edges, which can make the counters appear deeper. Solid-surfacing simulates marble, granite or other hard stone. It is widely considered to be the lowest-maintenance luxury countertop material and is often recommended for busy kitchens because of its durability and lack of porosity. Solid surfacing is sold in matte and glossy finishes.• Pros Available in a wide range of colours; seamless; stain-resistant; low maintenance; holds up well to abrasives; scratches can be sanded out; can incorporate integrated sinks.• Cons Expensive; looks less natural than stone.• Don't On solid surfacing with a high-gloss finish, don't use anything harsher than a mildly abrasive liquid cleaner and a sponge.• Periodic maintenance None.• Repair/restore Treat minor damage, including scratches, stains, scorches, and minor impact marks, with a light abrasive cleanser or a nylon scouring pad as described above. For difficult residues and stains, use a commercial spray cleaner made specifically for solid surfacing (available at home-supply stores).• How to clean Wipe with a damp cloth and then towel-dry. Treat spills or light stains with mild dishwashing liquid or an ammonia-based cleaner. Remedies for tougher stains depend on the finish: On matte (nonshiny) finishes, use an abrasive cleanser and a nylon scouring pad. Semigloss surfaces require a mildly abrasive liquid cleaner (such as Soft Scrub, which is recommended by Corian's manufacturer) or a solution of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water, and a white scouring pad.Stainless steelStainless-steel countertops are heat-resistant, extremely durable, and easy to keep clean. Because stainless countertops are built to measure, there are no seams to trap dirt and bacteria. Most health codes mandate it in commercial kitchens. Although stainless steel can scratch, over time the scratches mesh, forming a soft patina. Stainless-steel counters should be at least 1/20 inch thick (1/16 inch is preferred) to prevent them from denting and buckling.• Pros Resists rust, corrosion, and common household stains; withstands heat; easy to maintain; can incorporate integrated sinks; resists acids and oils.• Cons Expensive; can be noisy; may dent; shows fingerprints and water marks.• Do Always wipe with the grain.• Don't let it come in contact with chlorine bleach, which can pit the surface.• Periodic maintenance Deep scratches or dents may be impossible to remove, but minor, everyday scratches can be camouflaged by rubbing with a nylon abrasive pad. Start with a gentle pad, and work in the same direction as the existing grain. Switch to a more abrasive pad if necessary. If you create an area that looks different from the rest of the counter, gently rub the changes in with a feathering stroke to help them blend. You can also hand-polish the entire counter to blend the finish.• Repair/restore Deeper scratches require more aggressive treatment; consult a metal fabricator (look in the Yellow Pages to find one) for repair recommendations.• How to clean Wipe with a soft cloth and a few drops of mild dishwashing liquid, or a dry microfibre cloth (without cleaner). You can also use a gentle abrasive powder such as Bon Ami. Buff the surface dry after cleaning. Most hardware stores and home-supply stores sell spray cleaners specifically for stainless steel; they effectively remove fingerprints and water marks.ZincZinc is shiny like stainless steel when it is new, but it develops a warm, soft patina with time and wear. It has long been formed into restaurant countertops, sinks and bars, and can lend an old-fashioned look to any residential kitchen. For durability, choose zinc countertops that are at least 1/20 inch thick (preferably 1/16 inch).• Pros Heatproof; can incorporate integrated sinks; develops a warm glow over time.• Cons Scratches easily; can look industrial; shows fingerprints and watermarks.• Don't use cleaners that are highly alkaline (such as ammonia) or acidic (such as vinegar), both of which can cause damage.• Periodic maintenance To minimize tarnishing, apply a thin coat of food-safe paste wax (with a clean, lint-free cotton cloth, preferably a diaper), available from online retailers.• Repair/restore If dull or corroded, rub with number 000 steel wool.• How to clean Wipe surface with a solution of warm water and mild dishwashing liquid, then rinse well and towel-dry thoroughly.Page 4 of 4Excerpted from Martha Stewart's Homekeeping Handbook by Martha Stewart. Copyright 2006 by Martha Stewart. Excerpted with permission by Clarkson Potter. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced without permission in writing from the publisher.- Credit
- Martha Stewart
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Buying guide: Countertops Buying guide: Countertops
Buying guide: Countertops ofLaminate, ceramic tiles and solid surfacing What matters most to you: A certain look or easy maintenance? Do you hardly ever cook, do you cook a fair amount or are you truly passionate about cooking? Consider your needs -- and your budget -- before choosing a kitchen counter.LAMINATECharacteristics- Huge selection of colours and styles.Pros- Has appearance of “rich” materials like marble or granite.- Economical and easy to install. - Available as prefabricated countertop or in sheets. (Fewer shades available in sheets.) - Matte finishes are tougher than glossy finishes.Cons- Very vulnerable to stains, scratches and chips. - Not highly heat-resistant.CostAbout $15 to $25/sq. ft.CERAMIC TILESCharacteristics- Great variety of colours, styles and sizes, allowing you to get creative with your kitchen decor.Pros- Looks good in contemporary or country-style interiors. Highly resistant to heat and wear.Cons- Can crack. - Surface joints, where dirt tends to gather, require regular sealing (using epoxy for the grout will prevent staining).Cost$15 to $50 /sq. ft.SOLID SURFACINGCharacteristics- Corian is the best-known brand name of the so-called solid surface, or solid plastic, countertop materials. - Composed of minerals, polyester and acrylic. Huge selection of colours and styles. - Coloured all the way through.Pros- Resistant to heat, shocks, stains. - Can be custom-moulded to eliminate seams and to integrate under-mount sink, for one continuous surface. - No-maintenance, long life.Cons- Pricey. - Look of plastic not to everyone's taste. - Vulnerable to knife cuts, although scratch marks, stains and even holes can easily be repaired by a professional.Cost$50 to $100/sq. ft. Solid wood, stainless steel and concrete SOLID WOODCharacteristics- Adds lots of warmth to a kitchen; goes well with other very contemporary materials.Pros- Decorative. - Usually maple, but available in a variety of richer woods too, like cherry, oak, mahogany or walnut. - Low maintenance.Cons- Because it's varnished, this kind of counter definitely does not double as a cutting board. - Vulnerable to knife cuts and heat.Cost$75 to $100/sq. ft.STAINLESS STEELCharacteristics- Gives kitchen a contemporary look.Pros- Durable, heat-resistant and, because there are no joints, hygienic. - Buffing takes care of most problems.Cons- Can be scratched or scored, but such marks are a little less visible on sanded or matte finishes. A drop of water or a fingerprint shows instantly.Cost$120 /sq. ft.CONCRETECharacteristics- Provides the increasingly sought-after industrial look; especially popular for lofts. -Grey or brownish, but it can also be personalized with colours, imbedded objects or etched designs.Pros- Heat-resistant and very durable. Extremely customizable, as form is poured on-site.Cons- Requires a coat of sealer.Cost$80 to $90/sq. ft.BUTCHER BLOCKCharacteristics- Very popular for preparing and cutting food. - Made with hardwood (maple, oak or wild cherry).Pros- Perfect for work surfaces; like one big cutting board. - Knife marks can easily be eliminated with sanding.Cons- Average resistance to wear and heat. - Should not be installed close to surfaces exposed to water. - For protection and to prevent drying out, should be treated regularly with mineral oil. - Varnish should not be used.CostAbout $75 to $100/sq. ft.MARBLECharacteristics- Highly resistant; makes for a very elegant-looking kitchen.Pros- Pleasant to the touch. Very heat-resistant.Cons- Can scratch or stain. - As a natural stone, it is porous and requires regular resealing (twice a year).Cost$90 /sq. ft. Granite, soapstone and glass GRANITECharacteristics- The natural stone most often used to make kitchen counters. Wide selection of colours.Pros- A sure thing. - Durable, wear-, heat- and shock-resistant.Cons- Colour can vary from section to section. - Requires resealing once a year to prevent staining.Cost$75 to $110 /sq. ft.SOAPSTONECharacteristics- Natural stone.Pros- Resists heat well. Won't stain.Cons- Scratches easily, but damage can be reduced by sanding. - Annual application of mineral oil helps preserve colour.Cost$95 to $100/sq. ft.GLASSCharacteristics- Available in a great variety of colours, shapes and thicknesses.Pros- Very durable. - Heat-resistant.Cons- Can stain, scratch or break. - Recommended only for small areas or backsplashes.Cost$110 to $140/sq. ft.ENGINEERED STONECharacteristics- Made mainly from real minerals, usually quartz, mixed with acrylic. - Available in many shades and also in a new, less glossy finish that looks like leather.Pros- Stain-resistant. - No joints, therefore smooth and hygienic. - Patterns and colours are consistent. - Scratches can be removed with buffing. - Durable and low-maintenance.Cons- More expensive than granite.Cost$90 to $120/sq. ft.- Credit
- Martha Uniacke Breen
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Buying guide: The kitchen sink Buying guide: The kitchen sink
Buying guide: The kitchen sink ofBuying guide: The kitchen sink In many homes, kitchens are high-traffic areas. They're often the hub of the home and must be able to withstand lots of traffic and lots of activity. Want to improve the style and function of your workspace from the get-go? Think new sink. Stainless steel- Most popular, economical and practical sink material. - Has some give, reducing glassware breakage. - Huge range of styles and prices. - Look for 18/8- or 18/10-grade stainless steel for durability; consider sound insulation to help reduce the clattering of dishes.Vitreous china and fireclay- Traditional look.- Vitreous china is vulnerable to chips; fireclay is rugged, nonporous and hygienic. - Both can be moulded with raised designs and transfer patterns.Enamelled cast iron- Traditional look, but not as durable as fireclay. - Stylish at an economical price. - Look for a lifetime warranty against chipping.Solid surfacing- Can be melded to the solid-surface countertop so it's easy to clean and has a seamless look. - Can stain or scratch, but surface stains and scratches can easily be buffed out. Soapstone- Can be custom-carved and designed. - Can be blended with matching countertops. - More stain-resistant than other natural stone surfaces. - Surface scratches and stains can be sanded out. - Needs monthly oiling with mineral oil.Concrete- Less expensive than other custom sinks. - Chic, modern look. - Vulnerable to cracking over time if not properly cured. - Can stain; will need to be sealed once a year. page 2 SINK ADD-ONSWater-filtration units feature dispensers mounted either on the sink deck or the faucet. The filtration unit itself is installed under the sink. Cost: $40 to $400Hot-water dispensers are installed similarly but connect to a special heating unit. Cost: $300 to $800 Soap or lotion dispensers coordinated with the sink or faucet can be deck-mounted; the supply is filled from under the sink. Cost: $60 to $150 Garbage-disposal units reduce garbage, odours and clean-up chores; however, they increase water consumption. Cost: $150- Credit
- Martha Uniacke Breen
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Buying guide: Kitchen cabinetry Buying guide: Kitchen cabinetry
Buying guide: Kitchen cabinetry ofCustom cabinetry Possibly more than any other feature, cabinetry defines the style of your kitchen. We've done the legwork to help you make the choice that's right for you. Find out what cabinetry options are on the market and add stylish storage to your kitchen.Thermoplastic or Thermofoil $Created by “shrink-wrapping” a design or finish on a substrate (MDF); sometimes includes an embossed pattern or faux wood grain. Quality ranges from poor to good, depending on the manufacturing and the substrate.Laminate $Very economical; often achieves a realistic wood tone. Quality is only as good as the substrate (usually MDF). When it's well made, an excellent budget choice.Wood veneer $$An economical way to get the look of exotic wood without a high cost to you -- or to the environment. Can be superior to solid wood, since the properly sealed backings are less prone to warping and moisture damage. Quality of product varies widely.Solid wood $$$Hardwoods (oak, cherry, maple) are very durable. Pine is rustic, but it dents easily. High-gloss stain and paint finishes (including the trendy lacquer-finish look) show scratches and fingerprints more than a satin finish does. Metals $$$$Stainless steel is trendy, but it is prone to showing fingerprints and scratches. Aluminum has a softer look than stainless steel but has similar drawbacks. page 2 CabinetrySelecting stock rather than custom cabinetry will help trim your costs. Expect to pay $5,000 to $12,000 for budget, $12,000 to $25,000 for mid-range, and $25,000 for high-end cabinetry. When choosing, look for the following:• Square, neatly joined edges, even where they don't show.• Backs of doors that are as carefully finished and sealed as the fronts.• Solidly made hinges that move smoothly; avoid plastic components that will wear out more quickly.• A smooth finish, without any bumps or lumps except for the natural grain in some types of wood. • Drawer glides that come all the way out and gentle, self-closing springs.TipUpdating cabinetry knobs and pulls is a snappy way to make your kitchen shine. Cost: $3 to $50 each.- Credit
- Martha Uniacke Breen
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Buying guide: Faucets Buying guide: Faucets
Buying guide: Faucets ofBuying guide: Faucets From single-lever to wall-mounted, pullout spray to pillar, there are more options for kitchen sink faucets than you ever might have imagined. So, which one's right for you and your kitchen? Read our primer before you hit the stores!Single-lever- Convenient one-hand operation. - Leaves room on the sink deck for other units, like the soap dispenser. - Removes clutter from the sink deck for a cleaner look.Wall-mount - Available in both classic and contemporary looks. - Comes in either two-handle or single-handle styles.Pullout spray- Small shower wand pulls out of the faucet base. - Great for rinsing or filling pots on the counter. - Some have a temperature-maintaining pause button.Pillar - Old-fashioned, nostalgic look perfect for period kitchens. - Single- or two-handle styles. Pull-down spray - Small spray head on a flexible pullout hose mounted on the faucet. - Smaller size makes them more manoeuvrable than pullouts. - Suited to gooseneck faucets.Gooseneck - Increases the workspace around the sink area under the faucet. - Great for filling tall pots.Page 1 of 1- Credit
- Martha Uniacke Breen
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Buying guide: Kitchen lighting Buying guide: Kitchen lighting
Buying guide: Kitchen lighting ofAmbient lighting tips Lighting is important in any room in your home, but particularly in the kitchen. Whether you're trying to create ambience and atmosphere or need bright task lighting to help you work more efficiently, lighting plays an important role in both the style and serviceability of your kitchen. Here are some of your options:Ambient lighting: Overall illumination Cost: $50 to $200 per fixtureTrack - Aimable, adjustable fixtures on ceiling tracks. - Clean, contemporary look. - Not suited to traditional styles of homes. Pot or pin - Lights that are grouped and recessed in the ceiling. - Halogen provides the most even illumination. Puck - Sit on the ceiling; cast light farther than pot and pin. - Great for small or low-ceiling rooms. - Also used as under-cabinet task lighting.Global - Ceiling-mounted, often a half-globe or round; casts light in all directions. - Doesn't have the spotlight effect of some pot, pin and puck lights; perfect for large kitchens.Supplemental: Task and accent lighting Total cost: $100 to $400 page 2 Pendants- Attractive task lighting that hangs over work or dining surfaces. - Group three over an island for visual appeal.Strip fluorescents- Easy-to-install, economical under-cabinet lighting. - Energy-efficient long-life tubes. - Avoid cool white, which has a blue cast.Uplighting- Placed on top of cabinets to accentuate a high ceiling.Rope lights, fibre optics- Energy-efficient accent lighting. - Rope lights can be installed in or under the cabinets.- Credit
- Martha Uniacke Breen
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Buying guide: Kitchen cabinets Buying guide: Kitchen cabinets
Buying guide: Kitchen cabinets ofDIY options We're replacing all the cabinets in our kitchen and I'm confused as to my options. I've heard of custom-built, semicustom and stock cabinets. Which option should I use?--David RhodesA There are many places to go when looking for kitchen cabinets. You should have a budget in mind, which will determine what type of cabinetry you purchase.Stock cabinetry is available at DIY centres. The cabinets come in standard widths, between nine and 48 inches, in three-inch increments. These are the most affordable of all cabinetry, but you have to arrange the layout, ordering and installation yourself (although some places will do this for you). Door styles are limited, and so are the finishes. You can find this type of cabinetry at The Home Depot, RONA Home & Garden, Home Hardware and other reno centres for between $1,000 and $3,000 for 10 linear feet of upper and lower cabinets. Semi-custom and custom cabinets Semicustom factory cabinets aren't actually custom-made; you order them and they're assembled at a factory (although sometimes you have to do it yourself), but can offer more flexibility in terms of sizes, finishes and storage options than stock cabinets. Most semicustom cabinets take anywhere from four to six weeks to arrive. Installation can often be arranged for an additional cost. Places that sell cabinetry often offer free design services to help you with a layout, finishes and installation. You'll find semicustom cabinetry at Ikea, The Home Depot and Kitchen Craft stores or independent dealers across the country. The cost averages about $3,000 to $7,000 for 10 linear feet of upper and lower cabinets. Custom cabinetry is made in a carpentry shop by a carpenter; he or she can offer almost any finish, size or style. Carpenters are found via interior designers and architects, and through word of mouth. Many carpenters also advertise and some provide both design and building services. Delivery times can be quite long (12 to 20 weeks), since, depending on the company, it's usually only one carpenter working on all the details of the cabinetry. Carpenters are most often not kitchen designers, so you may want to hire a certified kitchen designer to design a cabinet style and floor plan for the carpenter to work from. Custom woodworking will cost about $5,000 to $10,000 for 10 linear feet. But many carpenters will find it difficult to quote a job without key specifics; each job is different and costs depend on style, materials and hardware choices.- Credit
- Karl Lohnes
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Buying bath towels Buying bath towels
Buying bath towels ofChoosing towels Floating out of a warm bath into a soft, thick bath towel can make you feel luxuriously pampered. But in most bathrooms the reality is that we jump out of our tubs and showers only to wrap our shivering bodies in a small, thin, almost water repellent, joke of a towel.“Who can afford $50 bath towels?” you ask. Don't worry -- it doesn't have to cost you two shivering arms and a leg for good quality towels, if you know the facts on how to buy and care for great towels.Choosing your towelsAll towels are made from varying types or grades of cotton. Some of the more expensive, high quality towels are made from products like Egyptian or Brazilian cotton. But the type of cotton shouldn't be your main concern when buying towels, says Heather Seale, an interior decorating instructor at Bow Valley College in Calgary.“It's hard to talk about [towels] without feeling and touching them,” Heather says, adding that the best way to judge the quality of a towel is to feel it and look at it. If it has a soft, velvety texture and a bit of weight to it, the quality is good. But if the towel is thin and feels scratchy like canvas, it's low quality and will wear out fast. Next, you should look closely at the fabric. It should be cut or shorn off so the fibres stand up just like the grass on your lawn, not woven into little loops. This makes the towel feel more luxurious. The fabric should also be tightly woven together to give the towel fullness. Buying and caring for towels Where to buyHigh quality doesn't have to mean high prices. Specialty shops can charge upwards of $35 for a towel but you can find excellent towels, such as Seale's favourite Brazilian cotton towels, at stores like Winners, Linens and Things or the Bay -- at low prices. You can even find good, medium-quality towels, with matching face cloths and accessories, at stores like Wal-Mart and Zellers.Seale says a good bath towel should cost you about $15 and decorative towels should cost between $18 and $22. An entire set of towels should only cost approximately $50 to $60 or less when large stores such as the Bay have half-price sales.Pamper your towelsYour towels will last eight to 12 years if you take good care of them. Wash light and dark colours separately and avoid fabric softener because it can make your towels less absorbent. Always dry them in the dryer; otherwise, they will feel stiff and scratchy. It's also a good idea to keep your dark towels away from bleach or peroxide not only when you wash them, but also when you use them after applying creams or other makeup that might contain harsh chemicals. As for light-coloured towels, Seale recommends washing these with a bit of Javex bleach, especially if you use them to clean up after messy children. And remember -- even when your towels have started to sport holes, you can still use them. Cut them into rags for cleaning and polishing. With long-lasting fabrics, affordable prices and low maintenance, there are no excuses for keeping those ratty old towels in your linen closet.- Credit
- Wendy Prince
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