Countertop materials: A guide

Butcher block
Maple and oak butcher blocks are the most common woods for countertops, although other hardwoods such as cherry, walnut and mahogany are also used. Rock maple is traditional for chopping surfaces because it is hard yet won't damage knife blades. Butcher-block counters are available in several configurations: as wide planks (also called flat-grain) or narrow strips glued together, or end-grain butcher block, made from hundreds of small wood squares laminated together. Wide planks are more apt to warp than narrow strips or end-grain blocks. Butcher block is finished with either mineral oil or polyurethane. Mineral oil prevents the wood from warping and drying out, but will not prevent stains. Polyurethane provides an impenetrable plasticlike coating.

• Pros Easy to maintain; can be sanded and reoiled or resealed as needed; looks warm.

• Cons Prone to water and stain damage; must be oiled or sealed periodically to prevent drying out and reduce porosity; burns easily and absorbs odours.

• Do Apply polyurethane to counters around the sink, since moisture causes wood to crack and split.

• Don't use vegetable or olive oils to treat wood, as they can turn rancid; use only food-grade mineral oil.

• Periodic maintenance Once a month, or when oiled countertops begin to look dry, reapply oil (never oil butcher block that has been sealed with polyurethane). Place a bottle of food-grade (nontoxic) mineral oil into a bowl of hot (not boiling) water, then rub a generous amount of oil onto the surface with a soft, clean cloth, working with the grain; reapply after the wood soaks up the oil. Continue until the wood stops absorbing oil. Wipe off excess oil, then let the countertops dry for at least six hours or, ideally, overnight, before using.

• Repair/restore Badly scratched or stained counters can be sanded smooth, then treated with oil or polyurethane. Use a fine-grit sandpaper (grade 220 to remove stains and 400 to smooth), sanding with the grain of the wood, before reapplying a finish.

• How to clean Wipe with a damp cloth and mild dishwashing liquid. Rinse well with a clean, damp cloth. A cloth dampened with fresh lemon juice or white vinegar may remove or lighten stains, and deodorize a surface finished with mineral oil.

Ceramic tile
Ceramic tiles are made from a variety of materials and methods, and offer a range of design possibilities. The most common, traditional glazed tile, is made from clay fired at extremely high temperatures. Its tough, glasslike surface is nonporous, although the grout that holds the tile in place is extremely porous.

• Pros Available in many colours, textures, and prices; glazed tile doesn't stain; resists heat and moisture.

• Cons Uneven counter surface; installation requires time and attention to detail; tiles can easily chip, scratch, or crack; grout stains easily, tough on dishware and glasses.

• Do Consider dark grout when installing tile, as it will show fewer stains than a light one. Treat grout with a sealer to reduce porosity.

• Don't use vinegar or anything acidic as a cleaner. It can damage the glaze and harm grout.

• Periodic maintenance Seal grout twice a year with a penetrating grout sealer.

• Repair/restore Damaged tiles can be replaced by a professional tile installer.

• How to clean Wipe with a damp cloth and mild dishwashing liquid. Rinse well with a clean, damp cloth. Tackle tough stains with a mildly abrasive cleanser such as Bon Ami and a soft cloth or a paste of baking soda and water. Grout can be cleaned with nontoxic oxygen bleach, then lightly scrubbed and rinsed.

Concrete
To create countertops, concrete is mixed with pigment, then poured into molds on-site, or precast in a workshop. After it is troweled smooth, it takes several days to dry and harden; it must then be sealed to guard against stains. Concrete counters can be as thick as desired, although anything more than four inches could strain supporting cabinets and floors.

• Pros Heat- and scratch-resistant; can be tinted in a wide range of colours; can be molded into different shapes to accommodate integral sinks, drain boards, and decorative edging.

• Cons Expensive and heavy; cracking is common; because it is very porous, it stains if not well sealed; tough on dishware and glasses.

• Do Reapply sealer when drops of water no longer bead on the surface.

• Don't use abrasive pads or cleaners, which can abrade the sealer, making staining more likely.

• Periodic maintenance A coat of food-safe paste wax (available from some concrete installers and online retailers), applied on top of the sealer, can add an additional layer of protection.

• Repair/restore Hairline cracks are just part of the aging process. Repairing more serious damage depends on the size of the damaged area. Small chips might be repairable; larger ones might necessitate countertop replacement. Either way, consult a contractor; concrete repairs are not do-it-yourself jobs.

• How to clean Wipe with a damp cloth and mild dishwashing liquid. Rinse well with a clean, damp cloth. Although a sealer offers protection, spills still must be wiped up immediately with a damp cloth or sponge to prevent staining. Acidic foods and cleaners will etch the surface; cooking oil will leave a mark. Use coasters to prevent ring marks.

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Excerpted from Martha Stewart's Homekeeping Handbook by Martha Stewart. Copyright 2006 by Martha Stewart. Excerpted with permission by Clarkson Potter. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced without permission in writing from the publisher.