Lisbon’s The Ivens is a happening hotel that’s as stylish as it is comfortable.

“It seems like everyone I know is going to Lisbon,” said my editor when I told her I was heading there. She’s not wrong. Lisbon is definitely buzzing on the travel radar right now, and for good reason. The weather is glorious for a start, but Lisbon is more than a sunny destination. 

There’s the architecture, rich history, traditional food, and veritable ease—the people are friendly, it’s a cinch to get around, and you’re forgiven for not speaking Portuguese.

Not surprisingly, hotel options abound. I wanted to stay in a vibrant neighbourhood, so I landed on Chiado, a dynamic pocket in the heart of Lisbon that’s home to the city’s hippest hotel: The Ivens.

Photo courtesy The Ivens

The hotel is part of the Marriott’s Autograph Collection, but with just 87 rooms, it has an intimate boutique feel, especially in the lush lobby. Softly lit, it’s kitted out with wood-panelled walls, coffered ceilings, a tiled fireplace, and built-in bookcases (it also smells divine). Velvet furniture and potted palms round out the mix for a sophisticated-club-meets-cozy-residence look. It’s the kind of lobby you really want to be in rather than just pass through.

The hotel takes its name from 19th-century Portuguese explorer Roberto Ivens and is inspired by him and fellow explorer Hermenegildo Capelo. Room categories are named after them, and the explorer theme informs decorative touches throughout the hotel, such as murals featuring exotic animals and jungle prints. Don’t be surprised to find an elephant wall bust in your room or a monkey statue guarding the elevator.

Photo courtesy The Ivens

There are seven room categories—from Superior to Signature Suites—spread over five floors. I stayed in a Capelo King, which had views to the Tagus River, French windows that opened, and a king-size bed that looked like it had been ironed smooth every time I returned. The rooms aren’t expansive—this is a 19th-century historical building, after all—but they are very well-designed, and my room even boasted a small seating area. The bathrooms are stocked with Acqua di Parma toiletries, and the closet hides a jungle-themed tote bag (mine had an iguana image on it) that you can take as a complimentary souvenir.

Photo courtesy The Ivens

If splurging is in the plan, the Signature Suites on the hotel’s top floor are a joy—they have private terraces with panoramic views. Premium rooms are characterful too, and many feature palm-leaf murals on the ceilings that take things up an aesthetic notch.

Photo by Francisco Nogueira

There’s a 24-hour gym, the hotel’s stunning Rocco restaurant, and staff that just can’t do enough for you. They are smiling, always on hand, and really care—they even remember your name, which is pretty nice. The concierge convinced me to take a tuk-tuk tour, which he arranged at a moment’s notice, and I’m so glad I did it. It’s a zippy way to sit back and get a sense of the city without having to walk up the many hills and inclines.

Photo courtesy Castro

When you do venture out, make sure to stop at Castro. It’s around the corner from The Ivens, and I think it makes Lisbon’s best pastel de nata, a traditional egg custard tart. Theirs are silky, caramelized just enough, and served perfectly warm (a sprinkle of sugar or cinnamon is optional). If you’re feeling adventurous, enjoy one with a shot of ginjinha, a Portuguese sour-cherry liqueur.

Overall, The Ivens is a delight. The location can’t be beat, and it’s a must to check out when in Lisbon, whether you reserve a room or just pop in to marvel at Rocco’s swaggering décor. I think my editor has already booked her flight.

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