How to: Choose a front door

Fibreglass doors are much more resistant to damage than steel or aluminum and can be made to mimic genuine wood exactly, but without the drawbacks of wood. These doors can be painted or stained any way you choose; in fact, they should be repainted every five years or so, making them higher-maintenance than steel.

Composite (or wood-veneer) doors combine an MDF (or stronger engineered-wood) core with a wood veneer. In some ways this is the best of both worlds, in that you get the matchless beauty of genuine wood with the strength, R-value and weather resistance of a manmade. However, these doors require as much maintenance as a solid wood door.

Genuine wood is the traditionalist’s choice and available in just about any type of commercially logged wood, from premium species like mahogany, teak and walnut to economical paint-grade species such as hemlock or pine. And ironically, some types of wood actually stand up better to the elements than manmade.

New construction methods reduce many of the drawbacks of solid wood, while maintaining its beauty and authenticity. One method is called “cut and turn,” whereby the lumber is cut lengthwise into sections and every alternating piece is turned 180 degrees, virtually eliminating the stresses that cause warping or bowing. Another method combines a core of a more stable species of wood with a veneer of a premium wood—giving you the look without the cost or vulnerabilities of a solid door made from a more expensive species.

However, along with wood’s main drawbacks, the insulating value of a wood door is not as high as a manmade with an insulated core. (Wood proponents do point out, however, that the front door itself is only a tiny proportion of the overall outer surface of your house; inadequate weatherstripping can make any type of door far less efficient.) And wood, whether solid or veneer, requires regular maintenance, including staining or painting and sealing.

Read more in Homes and Exteriors